Ball Pays Homage To Railroad Past With Roadmaster Chrono No. 999, G-Shock Gives 5600 A Stunning Amber Case, Lorier Hydra and Hyperion Get Flyer GMTs And New Watches from Cuervo Y Sobrinos And Nicolas Commergnat

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. Squeezing these new releases like lemons for my spiked lemonade!

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In this issue:

• Ball Pays Homage To Their Railroad Past With New Roadmaster Chronograph No. 999

• The Classic Casio G-Shock 5600 Gets A Very Smooth Burbon-Themed Limited Edition

• Lorier Updates Hydra and Hyperion Lines With That Cool New Miyota 9075 “Flyer” GMT Movement

• The Swiss-Cuban Brand Cuervo Y Sobrinos Introduces Three Ernest Hemingway-Inspired New Watches

• Indie Watchmaker Nicolas Commergnat Launches His First Watch, The Level One

Today’s reading time: 9 minutes and 1 second

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👂What’s new

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Ball Pays Homage To Their Railroad Past With New Roadmaster Chronograph No. 999

Ball is a bit of a weird company these days. They have immense heritage. It was founded in 1891 by Webb C. Ball in Cleveland, Ohio after Ball was designated Chief Time Inspector and tasked with making sure that all train conductors had watches that ran perfectly on time, after a stopped watch of one conductor caused a fatal collision. Webb C. Ball set up “RR Standard” (“RR” for Rail Road) to assure a high accuracy and perfect reading to all railroad employees. He also created the BALL Time Service, an after-sale service to which every employee of the rails had to bring his watch every two weeks to make sure the accuracy and reliability of the watch was maximal. To obtain the “RR Standard” certification, the watches had to follow certain criteria, which later inspired others like the Swiss Official Testing Institute.

The company remained in his family's hands until the1990s. After that the rights to the name were sold, and this is where the weird story starts. The company is owned by a Hong Kong company Asia Commercial Holdings Ltd. and it’s headquartered in a tiny office building in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland. Those who know much more than me about watches also find it quite telling that Ball does large pre-order windows, suggesting that they pawn of Chinese made watches as Swiss.

Whatever the truth about Ball is, they make good looking, well made and often not badly priced watches that are dripping in heritage and always ahve a great story to tell. It’s no different with their latest watch - the limited edition Roadmaster Chronograph No. 999 wristwatch, named after the legendary No. 999 land speed record-holding steam locomotive which used the Ball RR Standard to adjust its running time.

The historical nod comes in the form of a diving watch chronograph in a 42mm titanium case. It’s as technical in appearance as we’ve come to expect from Ball, with their signature gas tubes in place of lumed indexes, a solid diving bezel and water resistance of 200m. There’s also a subtle constant operation indicator at nine o’clock, simply to check that the watch is working at all times.

Inside the watch is the automatic Ball calibre RR1409, which is based on the ETA 7750 and offers 62 hour reserve. But more bizarrely, you can get it in COSC-certified and non-COSC-certified versions at two different price points. The final flourish is the writing on the rotor: 112.5 MPH RECORD BREAKER. It’s the only reference to the No. 999 on the watch other than its name.

Like most Ball watches, this one is limited to 1,000 pieces and you have to preorder it. The Roadmaster Chronograph No. 999 with the non-COSC-certified movement is priced at CHF 4,063, while the COSC-certified version is CHF 4,813. See more on the Ball website.

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The Classic Casio G-Shock 5600 Gets A Very Smooth Burbon-Themed Limited Edition

An alcohol themed watch sounds pretty much like a bad idea. It a recipe for disaster that can only end up in a tacky booze company logo on a face of an otherwise cool watch. At least, that’s what I thought. It still has a logo slapped on it, despite it not being one for a booze company, but I really like the new G-Shock x Oneness DW5600ONS234. This collaboration is, in fact, not with an alcohol company, but rather with the Kentucky-based sneaker and streetwear boutique Oneness, but it does get it’s fantastic aesthetic inspiration from the world of Kentucky bourbon.

Just like all entry-level versions of the iconic 5600 series, the new G-Shock x Oneness DW5600ONS234 is constructed out of resin with a mineral glass crystal and a stainless steel caseback. Similarly, the caseback is secured by four small screws, and the DW5600ONS234 measures the standard 43.8mm in diameter by 13.5mm-thick, with an overall lug-to-lug profile of 48.9mm and it still has 200 meters of water resistance.

This is where the similarities stop. the Oneness version gets a stunning case made out of transparent orange resin which really does look like it could disappear if you dipped it into a glass of bourbon. The same color is on the strap, but instead of being uniform it features a gradient that changes from golden amber to deep reddish brown. Further complement the warm colorway of this watch, the stainless steel buttons and pin buckle are given a gold ion-plated finish. As a final nod to the collaboration, the dial plate surrounding the inverted red LCD screen features the Oneness logo, along with the quote “What Are You Waiting On” printed on the lower portion of its gold-colored surface

Powering this G-Shock is Module No. 3229, which is one of the brand’s entry-level digital movements that can be found inside a number of different 5600 series watches. Running on a single CR2016 battery cell, it offers all of the standard G-Shock features such as a stopwatch, countdown timer, alarm, automatic calendar, and an electro-luminescent backlight. Accuracy for this module is rated at +/-15 seconds per month.

Sold as a collector’s set that includes a Oneness-branded display stand, along with a fabric bag and box that looks the packaging of premium bottles of Kentucky bourbon, the G-Shock x Oneness DW5600ONS234 sells for $130. Casio says this will be a limited edition, but they don’t say how much they will make. So, maybe, get one while you can because it is the best looking 5600 I’ve seen in a long while. See more on the G-Shock website.

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Lorier Updates Hydra and Hyperion Lines With That Cool New Miyota 9075 “Flyer” GMT Movement

These past few years have been marked by the resurgance of GMT watches. Everyone is coming out with them, from the cheapest of microbrands, to Patek Philippe. And while the more advanced brands could develop their own movements or purchase more expensive industrial-made GMT movements that offered the “flyer” GMT functionality, cheaper watches had to opt for cheaper movements that only offered the “office” GMT functions - with flyer GMTs allowing you to jump set the local time zone and office GMTs only moving the GMT hand (for a more in-depth look at the differences between the two, check out this great article from Monochrome Watches).

Then along came Miyota, with their 9075 movement. With their mass production scales, Miyota is able to produce a “flyer” GMT for a price low enough it can be used in sub-$1,000 watches, including those from indie and micro brands. It’s showing up in more and more brands, and Lorier is the latest to use it - updating their pair of GMT watches, the Hydra and Hyperion, with this very wanted movement.

The Hyperion is what Lorier describes as “the archetypal GMT,” fitting a well established mold of classic travel watches by Rolex and others. It has deep vintage vibes, with a red and blue 24 hour bezel, gilt accents, and even a roulette date wheel. It’s 39mm wide and 10.7mm thick, without the domed acrylic crystal. This is a slight increase over the previous Hyperion because the 9075 movement is a bit thicker than a regular GMT.

The other watch with a Miyota 9075 inside is the all new Hydra III. The Hydra has always been Lorier’s all purpose sports watch, dive capable and much more, and in the last iteration featured a compressor style case. But this changes for the third iteration of the watch, with now takes the form of an all out diver-GMT, in what for Lorier is a supersized case measuring 41mm in diameter. We get a fixed 24 hour ring at the dial’s perimeter, and a rotating dive bezel to track elapsed time, along with the oversized lume plots and hands you’d expect and want in a dive watch.

The Hydra Series III is available now from Lorier’s website, while the Hyperion is listed as “coming soon” and both are priced fantastically at $599. See more on their site.

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The Swiss-Cuban Brand Cuervo Y Sobrinos Introduces Three Ernest Hemingway-Inspired New Watches

I recently wrote about Cuervo y Sobrinos, a Swiss watch brand that was started as a watch repair shop in Havana, Cuba, where it later imported and sold watches like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Rolex to people like Caruso, Gary Cooper, Hemingway and Einstein. In the 1990s, the brand was revived and it’s now based in Capolago, Switzerland and has carved a niche with models that lean heavily on vintage design cues and a touch of Cuban flamboyance.

Now, they are capitalizing on their connection with Hemingway, Cuba’s famous citizen. Cuervo y Sobrinos has become the first watch brand that has developed a new model in collaboration with Hemingway Limited, the organisation overseeing Hemingway’s estate. Three new models from the Historiador collection – two with pointer date and one GMT – join the existing 3-hand model in the Hemingway sub-collection. These limited-edition watches will be launched during the annual Hemingway Days event held in Key West, Florida, from 18-23 July.

The three Hemingway models belong to the Historiador family and can be recognised by their flamboyant lugs and vintage vibe. Made out of stainless steel and polished, the 100m water-resistant cases measure 40mm wide, 11.75mm thick and feature a plaque on the case flank indicating them as limited editions. .

Offered with cream or tobacco-coloured dials, the Icónico models are limited to 882 pieces in each colour and feature a pointer date function. The date, printed on the periphery of the dial, is blue on the cream dial and indicated by a blue-tipped hand and white on the tobacco dial and indicated by a red hand. As the brand points out, the tip of the pointer date is meant to evoke the shape of a marlin’s tail. An allusion to Hemingway’s writing can be seen on the flange with a quote from the author “In order to write about life, first you must live it,” inscribed in English and Spanish. A second reference to the writer can be found on the sealed caseback bearing the Hemingway logo of the letter ‘H’ traversed by a marlin. The two Icónico models are powered by an automatic Sellita SW221-1 with a frequency of 28,800vph and a limited power reserve of 38 hours.

Then there’s the Historiador Hemingway Fisherman which pays homage to Hemingway’s novella, The Old Man and the Sea, written in Cuba. It’s limited to 288 pieces and it’s a GMT with a 24-hour scale on the bezel. Slightly less retro in spirit than the Icónicos, the Fisherman comes on a metal bracelet and reveals its movement through a sapphire crystal on the caseback. Again, references to Hemingway’s literary career appear on the flange with the inscription “Every day is a new day. It is better to be lucky“, also in Spanish and English, and the Hemingway ‘H’ logo with a marlin. Powered by calibre CYS 8122, using a Soprod C125 base, the automatic movement features a bespoke rotor and delivers a power reserve of 42 hours.

Cuervo y Sobrinos has designed a special leather watch box that looks like a book to house these limited editions, the idea being that it can be placed on a bookshelf for storage. The box seems to be lined with cedar, just like cigar boxes. The Hemingway Icònico models with either cream or tobacco dials are priced at $3,100, while the 288-piece Historiador Hemingway GMT “The Fisherman” is $3,850. See more on the brand website.

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Indie Watchmaker Nicolas Commergnat Launches His First Watch, The Level One

Nicolas Commergnat is an indie watchmaker who graduated from the École d’Horlogerie de Genève, where he’d interned at Patek Philippe and started his career next to AHCI co-founder and master watchmaker Sven Andersen and worked as a restaurateur of antique pocket watches for Christie’s. You might, perhaps, known him better for his partnership with Sébastien Billières of Genus Watches, as the two founded Alliance Genève Sarl and GMTI SA, specialised in movement assembly for various Geneva-based high-end watchmaking companies and the restoration of complex vintage watches.

Now he’s coming out with a new brand that carries his name and it’s beautiful. Simple and timeless, Commergnat uses classic techniques and traditional materials to create a Art Deco-inspired time-only hand-wound watch called the Level One

Made of steel, the 3-part case measures 38.5mm in diameter, with a reasonable height of 10mm. Combining brushed and polished surfaces, it reminds one of a Calatrava and elegant watches from the mid-20th century. It has a snap-on bezel and back and a dial that is protected by a hesalite crystal. The dial gets a lacquer coated glossy, milky surface with several layers of polished varnish. The numerals are Art Deco pad-printed and has a machine minutes track with pearls.

Inside is a manufacture movement, with an ébauche made by Jean-Marc Fleury Suisse Précision Composants and Fleury Manufacture. Nicolas Commergnat applies himself to the decoration with polished bevels, large Geneva stripes, perlage and polished countersinks.

Available exclusively from the brand’s website, the watch can be pre-ordered now. However, no price has been given yet. See more on their website.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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The first review for Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase is here

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Head to Head with two vintage-inspired watches from Brew

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Hands on with the true surprise of Only Watch 2023 - the Furlan Marri Secular Perpetual Calendar

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

The Beaucroft Bespoke allows you to design your own watch for an affordable price

When Beaucroft use the word bespoke, they truly mean it. Certain aspects of the case and dial are locked in, however the experience of creating your own unique watch is usually reserved for the super-wealthy or influential. The first stage involves discovering your preferences, ideas and aesthetics for what your watch could eventually look like. With guided steps, Beaucroft will help to distill your personality and ensure that the finished product speaks directly to your heart. You’ll be asked to describe the story that the watch could tell, and it could be anything from a favourite memory to a certain feeling. Whether that sparks an emotional connection or simply an entertaining one, the story could be laid out overtly or planted in subtle details. Once all that is established, the choice of colours, case finishing, printing and straps should fall into place naturally.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• David Bunevacz flaunted his luxurious lifestyle, pulling in friends and acquaintances. Turns out he was running a huge scam that stole over $35 million from the richest people in Los Angeles.

• Despite mixed reviews and a much smaller box-office take than Barbie, Oppenheimer is still garnering a lot of interest. Here’s a great piece from the NYT about Nolan’s contradiction with Oppenheimer, as the director argues that the physicist who oversaw creation of the atomic bomb was both the most important person who ever lived and hopelessly naïve.

• “State Capture” is the story of how the Gupta Brothers hijacked South Africa using bribes instead of bullets. It started with black market rations and ended with “the wedding of the century.” Novelist Karan Mahajan travels to India and South Africa to understand how three small-time investors fleeced an entire country—aided by some of the world’s most respected consultants.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

I’m going more and more niche with these videos, until you tell me to stop 😄 Today we have Adam Savage, of Mythbusters fame, talking about his time building the most badass robot to ever enter Robot Wars. Blendo was so intense it only competed four times in two years, and was disqualified every time for being too brutal. Their initial plan was so crazy it would have broken the laws of physics, and would have spun the robot so fast it would have combusted just from the friction of the air. But the built one was just as crazy.

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

• FOR SALE: Longines Heritage Skin Diver, box and papers. €1400. Reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

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