Citizen's Gorgeous, Expensive, Washi Paper Dial Gets A Platinum Version, Chopard Announces Turquoise Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, Baume & Mercier's Chocolate Clifton Is Tasty, New From G-SHOCK and Atelier Wen

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. I love it when a brand that makes accessible and mass-market watches goes off the rails and makes higher-end watches. This is a lot of value for money you are getting in this The Citizen featured today.

Also, I recently published the inaugural sixth edition of the newsletter. It was all about the sterile secret watches of MACV-SOG. If you want to tell me what to write about next, subscribe to the Pateron and let me know.

Want to win a Longines Spirit Zulu Time? Invite your friends to enter right now.

In this issue:

• Citizen Gives It’s Gorgeous Washi Paper Dial A White Version And It Looks Even Better Than The Black

• Chopard Announces Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue with Turquoise Dial

• Baume & Mercier Introduces New Supremely Elegant Chocolate Fume Version Of The Clifton

• G-SHOCK Unveils Latest GM-2100-1A, The Milky Way Galaxy Edition Made For The Chinese Space Program

• Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition

Today’s reading time: 8 minutes and 02 seconds

👂What’s new

1/

Citizen Gives It’s Gorgeous Washi Paper Dial A White Version And It Looks Even Better Than The Black

I will admit that I am not that well versed in the Citizen lineup. Sure, I know their most popular models, the affordable Tsuyosa, the sporty Promaster, even the cool(ish) Series 8 lines. But it was only two months ago that I got more familiar with their somewhat infuriatingly named The Citizen line. These are watches with premium movements, better quality materials and are, usually, limited to the Japanese market. But just two months ago Citizen brought The Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition AQ4103-16E, a Citizen unlike any other in terms of looks, internals and price, to the United States. Now, they’re introducing a brand new version of that limited edition in white and made with a whole bunch of platinum leaf powder.

While the black version was pulling of an elegant look with a gold coating on the titanium surface and a black leather strap, the white version goes for a more sporty-elegant look. It comes in a 38.3mm wide and 12.2mm thick case with facetted lugs, a smooth sloping bezel and metal bracelet. You also get a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and a solid screw-down caseback is engraved with The Citizen collection’s signature eagle insignia. The same eagle appears on the tip of the signed crown at the 3 o’clock position. Both the case and the bracelet is made out of titanium that’s treated with Citizen’s Duratect Platinum surface hardening treatment which has much more shine than the regular Duratect coating.

The main attraction, of course, is the dial. It’s made using Tosa washi paper, a material that’s often used in paper screens in traditional Japanese homes to diffuse light through a living space. It makes for an incredibly delicate texture of interweaving fibres. As if that wasn’t cool enough, Citizen has used a traditional technique called Sunago-maki to apply a platinum leaf powder, whereby the powder is carefully sprinkled onto the surface using a bamboo tube. Come on, how cool is that? A Citizen sprinkled with platinum dust? Each application of Sunago-maki is unique, making every single piece a unique-looking one.

Inside is the brand’s Eco-Drive Caliber A060 high-accuracy solar quartz movement, one of their most premium movements (I believe it’s the second most premium, as you can find the Caliber 0100 that's accurate to 1 second/year above it). Just like the others, it can be powered by natural or artificial light and in energy-saving mode can run up to a year in darkness. Accuracy is -/+5 seconds per year. You also get a low-power warning and independently adjustable hour hand, along with automatic hand position adjustment.

500 pieces of the Citizen Limited Edition Washi Paper Dial AQ4100-65W will be made. From what I understand, this will not be a release limited to Japan, but should find it’s way to Europe and the United States, but it is very difficult to find info on this. If you do manage to stumble on one, it will set you back around €4,150 in Europe and 451,000 Yen in Japan (which translates to about €2,850). You can see more on the Japanese Citizen website and run it through a translator, or you can wait to see when and if the global Citizen website will include the watch in their lineup.

2/

Chopard Announces Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue with Turquoise Dial

Everybody likes a good steel integrated bracelet sports watch, why not? Well, I’ll tell you why not. Because Gerald Genta’s influence on the genre just might be overwhelming. How many more brushed, smooth-bezeled watches with exposed screws can we have, be they Genta’s design or just heavily influenced by him? However, I must be wrong on this as there are more of these influenced watches than I can count and they are all selling good enough to be worth making. Some are not bad at all. Like this new Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in a new Maritime Blue dial which looks really nice, just don’t call it Tiffany blue.

The XL version of the Alpine Eagle comes in at 44mm wide and 13mm thick, as you would expect from something named XL. The watch is made out of Lucent Steel, which is Chopard’s proprietary alloy made from a high percentage of recycled material for improved sustainability. It has a broad round brushed bezzel with a pair of screws positions at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock around the bezel.

It’s kind of funny to hear a watch described as XL. That’s a descriptor you expect to see in a high street clothing chain rather than high end luxury wristwatch but on the other hand, you can’t deny that it’s accurate. The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue measures 44m in diameter with a broad, brushed bezel and wide pushers that make it seem even larger. It’s made from Lucent Steel, which is Chopard’s proprietary alloy made from a high percentage of recycled material for improved sustainability.

The dial has a deeply engraved sunray pattern which Chopard says should emulate an eagle’s iris, but I just say it looks great. Especially when painted in the extremely vibrant shade of blue. The chronograph subdials at 3, 6 and 9 have a snailed finished and while the engraving and snailing might sound like too much on one dial, I think it looks great. Busy, sure, but also great.

Inside the watch is the Chopard 03.05-C which is an automatic movement that features hours, minutes, chronograph seconds, 12-hour timer, 30-minute timer, small seconds and date complications. You get a 60 hour power reserve and COSC certification. Chopard also points out that they have three patents for the chronograph zero-resetting mechanism, unidirectional gear drive and vertical chronograph clutch, all of which is designed to facilitate an ultra-precise flyback chronograph function. The watch comes on either a steel bracelet or on a black rubber strap.

The new Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Maritime Blue is released as a boutique-exclusive model and priced at €20,800. See more on the Chopard website.

3/

Baume & Mercier Introduces New Supremely Elegant Chocolate Fume Version Of The Clifton

Since 2012, Clifton has been one of the basis for Baume & Mercier’s elegant GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watch. From a simple watch they evolved it into a well rounded collection featuring numerous complications and variants. Then, in 2018, the Clifton turned out to be the sleeper hit of SIHH, the most popular watch show at the time. Baume & Mercier didn’t radically redo it’s looks at the time, but what they did do is introduce the BaumaticTM BM12-1975A, a chronometer-certified proprietary movement, with a silicon hairspring and a comfortable 5-day power reserve which ushered a new age for the collection.

Since then Baume & Mercier has used that movement to push the collection further and are now introducing a new colorway on the dial and a new bezel that make it look classy as hell. The new Clifton 10713 comes in a steel case that measures 40mm wide, 11.3mm thick. The case has a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, while the simple sloping bezel which is capped with pink gold, the same color you can find on the crown.

The dial, however. Just look at it. If I have my facts right, it has been sand-blasted and then lacquered to give it an enamel-like finish. While the Clifton rendered in white or blue is very nice looking, this one with it’s gradient chocolate dial looks positively enthralling. The simple thin applied pink gold hour markers match the bezel, as well as the centrally mounted hour, minute and seconds hands. On the bezel is a gold colored crosshairs, as found on many other Clifton models.

Inside the watch is the mentioned BaumaticTM BM12-1975A which operates at a frequency of 28,800 v/ph, it features 21 jewels and offers a power reserve of 120 hours or five days. The movement also has some nice finishings, although nothing to write home about. It comes on and interchangeable brown patinated calfskin strap which perfectly matches the dial.

The Baume & Mercier Clifton 10713 is on sale now and can be purchased for $4,200. See more on the Baume & Mercier website.

4/

G-SHOCK Unveils Latest GM-2100-1A, The Milky Way Galaxy Edition Made For The Chinese Space Program

Time and time again I will feature watch releases that have geographic restrictions. Exclusive models intended just for the Japanese or European market. Watches you can buy only in the United States. However, this might be the first one I feature on here that is limited to the Chinese market. G-SHOCK has teamed up with the China Aerospace Science and Technology International Exchange Center, a part of the China Aerospace Science and Technology Corporation, the main contractor for the Chinese space program to create the GM-2100MWG-1A “Milky Way Galaxy Edition”.

Like the name suggests, this is a GM-2100MG which has been styled after the Milky Way Galaxy. This means that the stainless steel bezel got purple ion plating and laser engraving to create a unique and distinctive design. The entire watch - the case and the purple gradient dial - is speckled in white dots that represent the stars of our galaxy. The dial is made out of brushed steel, has a date indicator and the digital window you would expect from a GM-2100.

Accompanying the metallic components of the watch is a translucent resin wristband, with a stainless steel keeper, while the exclusive case back design adds a final touch with an image of the Milky Way engraved on it.

Pre-orders are expected to start on October 23 and while this is almost certainly a China-exclusive, G-SHOCK has been known to announce an exclusive that then shows up in other markets as well. The expected price is 1,990 RMB or $272. See more on the Chinese G-SHOCK website or keep an eye out on the U.S. G-SHOCK website to see if other markets will get it.

5/

Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition

It’s an unusual story, that of Atelier Wen. It is a passion project of two french men who saw that Chinese watchmaking is capable of more than just mass producing movements in a range of price points. Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron looked deeper and saw craftsmanship that they wanted to show to the world. Now 5 years old, they have the eyes of the watch world on them with a really high level of craftsmanship at a price that is really attractive.

Earlier this year, Wei Koh from Revolution magazine recognized these efforts and pushed the two to collaborate on a limited edition watch that turns out to be an interesting value proposition, considering the titanium case and an incredible red hand guilloché dial. Now they’re back with another collaboration, the Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception ‘Càn’.

Càn means ‘brightness’ or ‘splendor’, and these musth have been the words they have used as guiding principles when making it, considering it’s bright and splendid champagne sunburst flinqué giolloché dial hand made by giolloché master Cheng Yucai. The dial is composed of two layers: the patterned copper on top, while the second level features the indices. The chapter ring, decorated with a luminous Chinese lattice pattern, holds both in place without any adhesives or screws.

The dial is housed in a 40mm wide and 9.5mm thick titanium case which, Atelier Wen claims, is inspired by ancient pagoda rooftops. It has a 100 meter water resistance and an integrated steel bracelet that has push-clasp microadjustment, and partial exhibition and engraved caseback.

Inside the watch is the same movement that the regular Perception uses, the Dandong SL-1588. You won’t find much information about this movement online, but the brand does offer some specifications. This movement is based on Dandong’s ultra thin SL1 base. The SL-1588 is made exclusively for Atelier Wen and includes modifications such as a slightly slimmer profile, better accuracy (+/-10s/d upon leaving Dandong vs +25/-15s/d for regular Dandong movements), longer power reserve (41 hours vs 38 hours) and an overall better finish.

The Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception ‘Càn’ is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at $3,600. They will be available for purchase tomorrow, October 18, exclusively through Revolution Watch. See more about the watch on their website.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

1/

Hands on with the chocolate-dial Tudor Royal in steel and gold

2/

A review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

The Montoir Dive Watch is an affordable first effort from a new microbrand

While the Montoir Dive Watch is fairly simple, it’s by no means featureless, and this is a challenge that many brands struggle with when coming up with a minimalist design. The printed markers are a mixture of circles, rectangles and elongated triangles, with plenty of icy SuperLuminova for after-dark legibility. Purists will also surely appreciate the symmetrical, no-date layout. The devil is in the details, and my favourite has to be the minute track hashes extending just enough to touch the indices. One unusual feature on this style of watch is the needle seconds hand, as it tapers starting from the counterbalance, accompanied by a noticeable brushed finish. At launch, there will be five dial colours available, with a professional-looking orange and trendy cyan joining the black, blue, and white pictured here. Read the whole article on Time & Tide.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• Machines are becoming more like people and people are becoming more like machines. The increasingly symbiotic relationship between humans and technology signals a new era in the evolution of life on Earth.

• About 10,000 people on Earth still live as members of what some anthropologists call “uncontacted tribes”: groups of hunter-gatherers in almost total seclusion from the outside world. And every now and again a YouTuber will try to contact them and end up meeting the pointy end of their spears and arrows. But there is one very gruesome reason why they wish to remain uncontacted.

• Offsetting has been hailed as a fix for runaway emissions and climate change—but the market’s largest firm sold millions of credits for carbon reductions that weren’t real.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

Inspired by the human-powered enchainments achieved in Europe, in early summer 2021, Alastair McDowell & Hamish Fleming set out on a quest to enchain New Zealand’s 24 highest mountains above 3000 metres in a continuous 31-day push. This would be a transalpine journey, from west coast jungle to high-alpine summits, traversing some of New Zealand’s most dramatic landscapes. But with the clock ticking down, fatigue mounting and storms arriving, would they be able to complete the project before their time, weather & luck ran out?

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

• FOR SALE: Longines Heritage Skin Diver, box and papers. €1400. Reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

Want to let us know what you think about the newsletter? Go to our survey and fill it out.