Grand Seiko Releases GMT Inspired By Red Maple Leaves, The Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro Is All About Octopi, Swatch's New Collab Is With Blancpain, New Watches From Richar Mille, Breguet And Geneva Watch Days

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. There are some heavy hitters being released today, but all eyes over the weekend seemed to be on Swatch and Blancpain, and their collaboration. Don’t get angry at it yet, ti will be a good thing, trust me. Oh, and new giveaway time. The Longines will find it’s new home in the UK, and next up is a green Seiko Prospex Diver GMT.

Want to win the Seiko Prospex Diver GMT? Invite your friends or fill out the survey to enter right now as the giveaway ends today (for real).

In this issue:

• Grand Seiko Releases ‘Yuka Momiji’ Red Dialed GMT Inspired By Red Maple Leaves

• The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro Dive Watch Is All About Octopuses. Octopi?

• Richard Mille Unveil RM 30-01 Automatic With Declutchable Rotor

• Breguet Updates Their Purest Watch, The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, With Black Enamel & Pink Gold

• A New De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, HYT And Other Novelties From Geneva Watch Days That Didn’t Fit In Previous Editions

• Swatch And Blancpain Are Releasing A Line Of Watches Just Like The MoonSwatch

Today’s reading time: 12 minutes and 23 seconds

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Grand Seiko Releases ‘Yuka Momiji’ Red Dialed GMT Inspired By Red Maple Leaves

For what must be the fourth time in the past two weeks, Grand Seiko is releasing a new model. The last three releases were a wild combination of hits and misses, with some being amazing takes on classics and others messy combinations of great dials in questionable cases. But what do we expect from a Grand Seiko? Unless it’s something from the Evolution 9 series or a completely unbelievable mechanical feat, not much can surprise us. GS has become the master of fulfilling expectations - it will be an elegant and forgettable case with a gorgeous dial inspired by nature. And the new Grand Seiko ‘Yuka Momiji’ SBGJ273 is exactly that, but with a GMT movement.

The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures a reasonable 39.5mm. However, at 14.1mm thick, chunky sides and a retro box crystal, it looks to sit very tall on a wrist. Much less dressy than previous GS non-sport watches. The watch comes on a classic steel bracelet, which is to be expected, but imagine if Grand Seiko put as much thought into their straps as they did their dials… That would be incredible.

The Yuka Momiji is, of course, inspired by nature. Momiji is the word given to maple leaves that have turned red during autumn. It’s that colour which is the focal point of the dial here. But Japanese always has multiple nuanced meaning. The whole name means ‘floor maple’ and has an entirely different connotation, meaning the autumnal leaves that are reflected on the lacquered wooden floors of Japanese homes and temples.

And all of that makes its way to the dial. It’s rendered in a gorgeous red lacquer that resembles the autumn leaves, but it also has vertical grooves running the length of the dial, imitating floorboards turned red by the leaves. The result is absolutely gorgeous, and a review I read says that not only does the dial look amazing in real life, the finishing that gives the grooved look is subtle and almost invisible unless under direct light. As with other GS watches, the indexes and hands get a flawless Zaratsu polishing and the GMT hand ties in the entire theme with a warm autumn glow.

Inside you have the most recent version of a Grand Seiko workhorse, the calibre 9S86. A hi-beat movement that oscillates 36,000 times an hour, it’s one of the most accurate movements out there. You get a 55 hour power reserve and a "flyer" GMT, so you can jump-set the main hour hand to update the time in a new time zone.

The SBGJ273 is available now online at Grand Seiko's website and in select boutiques for $7,100. See more for yourself on the GS website.

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The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro Dive Watch Is All About Octopuses. Octopi?

Jacques Bianchi might not be a household name, but they sure have a very loyal following. The company was started in Marseille back in the 1980s with their JB200, which was a quartz dive watch at one time issued to combat divers of the French Navy. The brand struggled and went under, only to be revived recently. In 2021 the brand launched a Kickstarter campaign for the reissue JB200, a classic looking diver powered by the Seiko NH35 movement with a crown on the left side and a drawing of a diver on the dial. It was interesting enough that they managed to raise almost €800,000. Now the brand is releasing an update to the JB200 called the Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro.

The new JB200 Poulpro is basically the same as the 2021 model, but with updated colors and a new drawing on the dial. This means you get a stainless steel case that measures 42mm wide, 13.3mm thick and a 46.6mm lug-to-lug. From what I’ve seen in other places, a lot of that 42mm width falls oof on the crown and guards, with the bezel being only 39.8mm wide, meaning it wears much smaller than you would think. Like the name suggests, it has 200 meters of water resistance.

The new Poulpro model introduces a new “Mediterranean blue” colorway. The watch’s dial is a deep blue matte, with aged lume hour markers and bezel markings. I really don’t like fake patina on lume, but here it’s not as pronounced so it works perfectly. The blue of the bezel is slightly different due to its metallic tone, and a third shade of blue shows up on the tropic rubber strap. The watch also comes in all black. The other major change from the previous JB200 comes on the dial, where there is a stylized depiction of an octopus. It holds on to the central pinion and reaches out toward the hour markers.

The third big change comes on the inside. While the previous JB200 was powered by the rather cheap Seiko NH35. While the NH35 is often seen in lower priced Seikos and microbrands, it’s not particularly accurate as it’s stated accuracy range is within -20~+40 seconds. Jacques Bianchi replaced this movement with the Soprod P024 movement that is also often found in microbrands, but offers much better performance. This ETA 2824-2 based movement will get 42 hours of power reserve, beat at 28,800 bph (4Hz) and has an accuracy of +/- 12 seconds per day.

The new Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro will be available for a limited pre-order. Starting September 7th, you will have 15 days to place an order to get the watch at a special pre-order price of €646, excluding VAT. After that the price will go up. Also, the blue version will be available only during a one-week preorder window. You can see the watch for yourself on their website.

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Richard Mille Unveil RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor

Richard Mille gets a lot of flack. And it’s not so much because of their quality (which is amazing), or their looks (which might be questionable to some but are undeniably different). Most of the flack they catch is from stereotypes derived from people who wear them. But we at It’s About Time don’t believe in stereotyping, so we love us some Richard Mille and the highly advanced watches they make. Like their new RM 30-01, an upgrade to the RM 030 from 2011.

The RM 030 is a Richard Mille classic, so it’s nice to see an upgrade after nearly 13 years on the market. The new RM 30-01 will give their owner the same functionalities as the RM 030, but in a radically upgraded look. It comes in two versions - a full titanium case or a titanium case with with a red gold bezel and caseback. Like so many other RMs, both versions have exposed screws over the bezel and these are large watches, something that’s a bit surprising when you see one in the flesh. You expect them to be smaller do to their tonneau shape. It’s 42mm wide, 49.94 lug to lug and a whopping 17.59mm thick.

But the watch uses up every millimetre of that thickness for the complicated mechanism and a simple skeleton display that provides incredible depth. You get central hours, minutes and seconds along with an oversize date, function selector, power reserve indicator and clutch engagement indicator. The components and bridges have been arranged in a specific angular pattern so that the shape you see most is a diamond.

Through the dial you see the new skeleton calibre, the RMAR2, an updated version of the RMAR1 from the RM 030. Both the new calibre and the older one are notable for using a clutch to engage or disengage the winding rotor. The way it operates is that once the power reserve reaches its max threshold at 55-hours the rotor automatically disengages and then when the reserve drops below 40-hours it re-engages. This is RM’s highly complicated way of preventing over-winding, something that other watches do through a combination of a sliding flange and grease. However, this method can be abrasive to the movement and create debris, which is what Richard Mille’s gear style clutch is designed to prevent.

This could be considered an entry level Richard Mille, but even as such the price is on request. Which means it’s more than most can afford, or north of 200k. But it’s still a fun watch to see work. See it for yourself on the RM website.

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Breguet Updates Their Purest Watch, The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, With Black Enamel & Pink Gold

Among the many, many horological inventions that Abraham-Louis Breguet came up with, the perfection of the minute repeater might just be my favorite. There are very few things as complex and as unnecessary as a mechanical wristwatch that chimes the time. And as a tribute to its founder, Breguet has just released a new edition of its Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, devoid of almost any unnecessary bells (lol, what a pun) and whistles, focused almost entirely on the chimes, but with a fantastic pink gold case and a glossy black grand feu enamel dial.

The Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes was revamped last year in a white gold case and blue enamel dial, making the watch as simple as possible with just 2 hands and focused completely on the chiming. This year, the Breguet Minute Repeater 7637 comes in a new version - with an 18k pink gold case and a black dial. More contrasted and much warmer, it remains pure and elegant. The case is 42mm wide and 12.2mm thick. The thin bezel is polished, the flanks are fluted and the lugs, straight and thin, are individually soldered and feature the classic screw pins at their tip. The minute repeater function is started by a trigger on the left side.

The black grand feu enamel dial takes a hell of a lot of time to make, with each layer of colored powderd having to undergo it’s own bake at temperatures of over 800 degrees Celsius and for a carefully programmed time. The shiny black surface gets Breguet Arabic numerals, minutes track and Breguet logo all rendered in a powdered silver colour. The hours and minutes are displayed by open-tipped gold Breguet hands.

Inside is a highly decorated movement, with fully engraved bridges. This movement, despite its modern construction, is designed in a highly traditional way with a central guitar-shaped bridge and 3 finger bridges for the gear-train – which is known to be the classic Lemania base. The hammers, made of black polished steel, are striking a set of gongs that are positioned in a contemporary way. The gongs are fixed to the case middle instead of the plate. As a result, they vibrate directly and transmit sound more effectively. Additionally, the gongs are crafted from gold to produce, according to the brand, a harmonious sound quality with a wealth of partials (overtones). This hand-wound movement beats at 2.5Hz and stores up to 40 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The watch comes on a black alligator strap with a 18k pink gold folding clasp.

The Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes is now part of the permanent collection and will set you back a mind bending €264,700. See more on the Breguet website.

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A New De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, HYT And Other Novelties From Geneva Watch Days That Didn’t Fit In Previous Editions

Geneva Watch Days has ended and I did my best to cover the most interesting stuff as it came out. However, I still missed a couple of major releases. Instead of bugging you with huge write-ups on each of the releases, I decided to stuff it all into one short post with a few sentences each and links to the brand websites so you can check them out for yourself. Hope it helps!

De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue

De Bethune introduces its latest masterpiece, the DB28XP Kind of Blue. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch’s deep blue hue is achieved through natural oxidation, rendering each piece unique. The Microlight dial modernizes the traditional guilloché technique, introducing shadow and light play that adds depth and architectural dynamism. This is a continuation of the ultra-thin DB28XP launched in 2020 and it’s powered by the manual-winding movement DB2115v12 which features De Bethune’s distinctive balance wheel, visible through a dial opening at 6 o’clock. The watch is limited to 25 pieces. The official price is still TBC, but some outlets have reported $125,000.

Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe In Carbon

Two models from Greubel Forsey - the Balancier Convexe S² and Double Balancier Convexe - are presented in new carbon versions.

The more impressive is the Balancier Convexe S² with it’s complex geometry that demanded a lot of experimentation with temperature and pressure when creating the case. The timepiece’s contouring extends to the display and case back, embracing the wrist with unparalleled comfort and housing the ingeniously redesigned 30° Inclined Balance Wheel. The watch will be limited to 22 pieces each.

The new carbon Double Balancier Convexe is available in two striking variations. The first boasts an iridescent green finish, punctuated by rich blue tones on the main bridge and power reserve display, harmonizing with a rubber strap in the same hue. The second version showcases the versatility of black carbon fiber. The heart of the timepiece features Greubel Forsey’s signature Double Balancier mechanism. Also limited to 22 pieces of each variation.

Arnold & Son Presents New DSTB Models In 42mm

The refreshed DSTB 42 collection from Arnold & Son is what you would expect - elegant and innovative. You get a redesigned case and the Manufacture calibre A&S6203 with a 55-hour power reserve, and there will be two limited series available: the DSTB 42 Red Gold with a blue dial and the DSTB 42 Platinum featuring a salmon dial.

Six Industry Veterans Come Together To Release Debut Artime Watch

Fabrice Deschanel, Didier Bretin, Manuel Thomas, Claude Emmenegger, Emmanuel Jutier and Stéphane Maturel, all longtime staples in the watch industry, have come together to form a new brand called Artime and they introduced their first watch ART01, a striking piece with a tourbillon, is a sandwiched construction of sapphire crystal and titanium.

Bianchet introduces the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618

The Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 from Bianchet comes with a skeleton movement inspired by aviation and a case crafted from a Titanium-Dust-High-Density Carbon composite. Meticulous hand-finishing, titanium tourbillon cage, and an openworked big date further enhance the watch’s mechanical charm. Limited to 200 pieces.

Hautlence presents the avant-garde Sphere Series 1

The Spehere Series 1 introduces a twirling hour sphere that adds an architectural edge to its unique approach. The blue sphere rotates every hour through four conical gears. Next to the sphere is a retrograde minute hand that exposes the intricate movement underneath. The steel case houses the hand-wound A80 caliber that provides a 72-hour power reserve.

The New HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires Is A Watch Fit For Thanos

Merging animations, luxurious gemstones, and a crazy conical tourbillon with HYT’s fluidic mechanical technology, HYT introduces the Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires watch. The retrograde fluidic hour indication and the conical tourbillon’s mesmerizing rotation are highlighted by three remarkable sapphires – fuchsia, blue-gray, and yellow – each rotating at varying speeds.

Perrelet Shows The Turbine 41 Titanium

With the Turbine 41, Perrelet debuts a collection with a smaller case size. The turbine, a hallmark of the collection, has been redesigned to new proportions and it is made up of 12 black anodized aluminum blades with counterweights for fluid motion. The watch sports a titanium case and comes in ten references, with variations in case materials, colors, and strap options.

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Swatch And Blancpain Are Releasing A Line Of Watches Just Like The MoonSwatch

There is absolutely no more controversial watch in the past decade than the Swatch MoonSwatch. In one of the most genius marketing moves of the watch world, Swatch decided two years ago that they can make a cheap plastic version of the Omega Speedmaster in various colors. They botched the launch horrifically and are still fighting to meet demand, selling over a million of the MoonSwatches in the first year, but the results are clear. Not only did the MoonSwatch bring in an additional $250 million to the Swatch group, it also boosted interest in the Speedmaster, which also saw a sharp rise of 50% in sales.

The internet was livid about the MoonSwatch. Some were adamant that it was a heresy, a cheap piece of garbage that is just copying the iconic look of the Speedy. Others were puzzled by this reaction as it is very clear that this was not a Speedmaster but rather a fun cheap watch that was meant to bring a bit of color to peoples wrists and stir up interest in the Speedmaster among younger buyers. I’m smack dab in the middle of those two camps. I think it’s a brilliant piece of fun cheap watchmaking, hindered by it’s ludicrous limited availability, Swatch’s insistence that they need to release special edition based on the lunar cycle instead of upping production on the pieces people actually want.

Well, strap yourselves in for a wild ride again. September 9th, Swatch is releasing another collaboration with one of the brands they own - Blancpain. Yes, the legendary watch house that proudly states that they never used a quartz movement will now get a cheap (possibly quartz?) version and people are already losing their minds. But trust me, this is a great thing.

From what we know so far, Gregory Kissling, Head of Special Projects for the CEO of Swatch Group, has worked closely on this new collaboration, just as he did on the MoonSwatch. We speculate there will be five watches in this collection, each named after one of the world’s oceans. The Indian Ocean, The Atlantic Ocean, The Pacific Ocean will refer to modern Blancpain models and the more extreme oceans, The Arctic Ocean and The Antarctic Ocean, will refer to historical Blancpain models.

Why is this a great thing? The idea, or the effect, of the MoonSwatch wasn’t to devalue Omega. It was to drum up interest in the Speedmaster. In fact, listen to mr. Hayek himself explain the collaboration with Blancpain: “We have so many young customers who are aspiring, but cannot buy a watch for $30,000 or $50,000, so if I open a collaboration with Swatch, in the way you have done with Omega, I can reach more people with my name, with my history, with what is coming”.

We can aspire to an idea of owning a Blancpain. Or, we can look at a Blancpain on our wrist every day and actually visualize what it will be like to own the real thing one day. As for devaluing Blancpain, if you really think a brand like Blancpain can be devalued by a Swatch collaboration, you really don’t have much of an opinion of the brand in the first place. Do you think that Ferrari devalued their brand with the Fiat 500 collaboration?

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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Hands on with the Rado Captain Cook x Cameron Norrie Limited Edition

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A review of the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

Maals makes some incredibly innovative watches, but if that’s not enough, how about a piece unique commission?

The Maals Silgo is a watch that was made from scratch to suit just one person’s style and need. As such, it is an intensely personal object. It may not be for everyone, but it does make you consider the possibilities of a truly bespoke watch. A partnership such as this allows the client to create their aesthetic vision with an ideal fit, like a tailor-made suit. As I inspected the Silgo, I imagined how it would to create a watch to my own specifications. Which movement or complication would I choose? What is my preferred case size? What would my dream dial look like? Undeniably, it all sounds fascinating.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• When Kyle de Rothschild Deschanel arrived in New York nightlife and venture fundraising circles a few years ago, he was an instant hit. Equal parts charm, enterprise, and fabulous family wealth, he seemed to live on a 24/7 carousel of mega-dollar deals and raucous parties. It was almost as if he had conjured his entire existence out of thin air. What if he had?

• Come on, who wouldn’t read an article with this title: He Was Shot 14 Times at the Dinner Table. His Children Want to Know if Britain Ordered the Hit.

• In this sweeping epic for The Atlantic, Franklin Foer chronicles the chaos and casualties of the US’ bungled withdrawal from Afghanistan, which took place during August 2021

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

You absolutely cannot predict the future by looking at the past. However… Van Neistat, the filmmaker I often link to here for his great Tom-Sacks-inspired short videos on YouTube has been going on and on and on about the fourth turning. It’s this idea that history happens in 80 year blocks, with four distinct eras within this block. And it seems that we are in the crisis block for at leas another 10 years, but then things are supposed to get better. I’m not sure I buy it, but it’s interesting.

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

• FOR SALE: Longines Heritage Skin Diver, box and papers. €1400. Reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

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