I Review A Watch: Atelier Wen's Perception ‘Millésime’ 2024 睦 (Mù) is a perfect metaphor for how we often see things through the wrong lens

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. This is the story of how perceptions can mislead us, whether it’s in how we view other cultures or something as seemingly straightforward as a watch. This is a review of the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 2024 睦 (Mù)

The Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 2024 睦 (Mù) is a perfect metaphor for how we often see things through the wrong lens

Full disclosure notice: No money has been exchanged in return for this review. Atelier Wen was kind enough to send the watch over for review before they released it to the public and Atelier Wen covered the shipping bill both ways. That’s it.

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Like it or not, in life, perception is everything. It shapes our world, influences our decisions, and colors our judgments. But what happens when that perception is challenged? What happens when the preconceived notions we cling to are proven wrong? This is the story of how perceptions can mislead us, whether it’s in how we view other cultures or something as seemingly straightforward as a watch. And in the case of Chinese watchmaking, this misperception has been an enduring one, unfairly casting shadows over a deeply rich tradition of craftsmanship. Me getting my hands on the new Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 2024 睦 (Mù) is a perfect metaphor for how we often see things through the wrong lens—and how, when we look more closely, we can discover something unexpectedly beautiful.

The first perception Atelier Wen is challenging is the stereotype that plagues Chinese watchmaking. Cheap mass production, inferior quality, and a lack of originality are all things you will hear from casual observers. Not only is that no longer the case, Chinese watches are beating their Swiss competitors in some areas. In fact, a lot of Swiss companies are trying very hard to hide their Far East connections when it comes to production. The other perception that got shattered is of the watch itself. From the second I put it on my wrist, I was stunned. Not in a positive or negative way necessarily, it was overall an interesting experience. But let’s save that for last when I make a judgement.

When the Millésime edition first landed in my hands, I was taken aback by how light it felt. For a watch constructed from grade 5 titanium, my expectations were skewed by the mental image of something bulkier, weightier, almost industrial in feel. And yet, what I encountered was the opposite—a watch that felt delicate, feather-light, and yet robust. Titanium is a notoriously difficult material to work with, but its unique properties—strength, durability, and, of course, lightness—make it ideal for watches. The surprising lightness became a fitting metaphor for how easily we underestimate the weight of China’s watchmaking heritage. Just as the watch felt lighter than expected, so too have we often treated Chinese craftsmanship as lightweight in the broader conversation about horology. The Millésime 睦 (Mù) changes that narrative with grace and precision.

A central feature of the Millésime edition is its stunning purple dial, which shifts between deep, regal hues and vivid ultraviolet tones depending on the light. It’s the result of many trial and error in physical vapor deposition (PVD) processes to get the perfect shade of purple. The dial is adorned with a traditional écaille de poisson (fish scale) guilloché pattern, a technique painstakingly performed by China's sole master guilloché craftsman, Cheng Yucai. Guilloché, the intricate art of engraving patterns onto metal surfaces, is a skill rarely found outside Switzerland, yet here it is, executed flawlessly by a Chinese artisan.

As if the watch itself weren't captivating enough, the Millésime edition offers a tantalizing (see what I did there?) twist for a few lucky collectors. Three buyers, chosen at random, will receive their watch not in titanium but in full tantalum—a rare and incredibly dense metal that’s difficult to work with but prized for its beauty and resilience. Tantalum is typically reserved for the most exclusive of high-end watches, making its inclusion in this collection even more significant. The choice to introduce tantalum through a random "ticket draw" is a nod to the playful side of luxury. It evokes memories of Willy Wonka’s golden tickets, injecting an element of surprise and excitement into the purchasing process. It also speaks to Atelier Wen's mission of keeping the brand community-driven, rewarding loyal followers with something truly exceptional.

Tantalum’s use in the Millésime edition is yet another example of how perception—this time, the perception of rarity and exclusivity—can be subverted. We often associate rare metals with only the most storied European brands, but here, a young Chinese brand dares to challenge that idea.

Inside the Millésime 睦 (Mù) beats the customized Dandong SL1588A movement. With 32 jewels, circular côtes-de-Genève patterns, perlage, and generous anglage finishing, the movement is quite the looker, visible through the semi-display sapphire caseback. The purple rhodium-plated tungsten rotor is a standout feature, tying the purple theme of the dial to the movement in an elegant and cohesive manner. With a 41-hour power reserve, a +/- 10 seconds per day accuracy, and resistance to temperature fluctuations, the watch is built to be worn.

The case and bracelet design continue the theme of balancing perceptions. At 40mm (at its widest point) and 9.4mm thick, it wears closer to a 38mm watch, thanks to its carefully considered proportions. The bracelet, too, is a study in subtlety, tapering radically from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. It’s fitted with a proprietary, patent-pending micro-adjustment system. There are two things that are super important about this bracelet. First, the finishing. It’s pretty incredible, with deep brushing on the links and perfect polish on the bevels. And second, more importantly, despite having tight tolerances, I can confirm that this bracelet didn’t take out a single hair from my arm. Which is always appreciated.

Atelier Wen’s Millésime 睦 (Mù) is not just about the product; it's about the people who love the brand. The project is community-driven, ensuring that this yearly limited edition remains accessible to loyal followers rather than becoming an unreachable prize for only the most competitive collectors. It’s a rare nod in the luxury world to the power of community over exclusivity. The name of this edition, 睦 (Mù), means “amity” or “kinship” in Chinese, underscoring the brand's philosophy of bringing people together through a shared passion. The watch itself becomes a symbol of connection—a reminder that the best things in life, whether friendships or finely crafted timepieces, are built on mutual respect and appreciation.

As I wore the Millésime for the first time, I couldn’t help but think about how much my own perceptions had changed. I had approached the watch with some reservations, colored by the long-standing bias that Chinese watches simply couldn’t compare to their European counterparts. And yet, here was a piece that rivaled—if not exceeded—many Swiss timepieces I had previously reviewed. The watch, light and delicate on the wrist, was not what I expected. But isn’t that the beauty of perception? It forces us to confront our biases and see things anew.

I would say this was an overall glowing review, right? Mostly because I was smitten with the watch, its originality, shape, finishing and dial. But no watch is perfect, so here are the things that would need to be improved and things that bugged me. Yes, I know that I praised the incredible nature of titanium as a material when used in watches. But I mostly love it’s use in chunky pieces that need the light material to be wearable. On the Millésime it has an opposite effect. It makes the watch seem almost unreal, like a prototype. This is likely my own bias (perception?), but I like a little heft to my watches. I haven’t handled a steel Perception, so I can’t say if that’s much better, but I would love for the watch to have more weight. That’s why I think that the tantalum version just might be perfect. This might be an idea to explore for Atelier Wen, a whole line of tantalum watches. I’m sure this will be cost prohibitive, but it would be just spectacular!

The second thing I didn’t necessarily fall in love with is the movement. On one hand, it impressed me greatly with its precision and really nice look through the caseback. On the other hand, just like the rest of the case, it felt too… light. When you pull out the crown, it’s instantly noticeable that the operation is super light, making setting the exact time a bit of a fiddly chore. I’ve also seen the minute hand move just a tick when I pull out the crown, which gives this sense of lightness, and perhaps perceived as cheapness, but don’t worry, that doesn’t happen when you push it back in. It’s not a big deal, but it would be amazing if Dandong could do something about this.

Despite those two things, this would still be in the “buy” category. It would be a firm buy if you are looking for a different watch, something that challenges perceptions and puts a hand (with the use of a rose engine) guillochéd dial in your hands for a low price. Well, actually, that price is also a matter of perception. If you look at it as a pretty watch, the €3.268 price tag might sound high. But if you look at it as a partly hand-made, seriously finished and unique expression of artistry, it could be a steal. See more of the watch on the Atelier Wen website.

-Vuk