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  • Panerai Has Their Most Old School Release This Year; G-Shock Gets Five New Two-Tone Models; Bulova Picks A Winner From The Back Catalogue; Andersen Genève's New Watch Is Extremely Minimalist

Panerai Has Their Most Old School Release This Year; G-Shock Gets Five New Two-Tone Models; Bulova Picks A Winner From The Back Catalogue; Andersen Genève's New Watch Is Extremely Minimalist

A slowish day, but at least we have a new review for you to read

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. Another rather slow day, but at least I have a new review for you, it’s of the Seiko x Giugiaro SCED035 "Ripley".

The Patreon needle is moving up and I am forever grateful. It actually looks like we might be able to continue without any ads, if this rate of subscriptions continue. If you’re wondering what I’m talking about, read the text in red below:

We’re at a crossroads and I need your help to decide what to do. I really want to keep this newsletter ad-free with the generous support of you, the readers. However…

I have some great news and some not so great news. The great news is that this newsletter is growing so fast and so large that I couldn’t have imagined this in my wildest dreams. The bad news is that these large numbers mean more cost for the email service I’m using. While email is free, sending thousands of them per day gets very expensive very fast. We’re looking at $2,000+ per year this year and more in the coming years.

I’m incredibly glad that this is the extent of my problems, but it is a problem I need to address sooner rather than later. If you think keeping our little cosmos we created here ad-free is a good idea, you can hop on over to Patreon (or, if you don’t like Patreon, reply to this email and we’ll figure something else out) and help out. But don’t worry, your help will not go unappreciated — subscribe to the Patreon and you get 5 additional longform posts per week which include an overview of interesting watches for sale, early access to reviews (it’s the Seiko x Giugiaro SCED035 "Ripley" from last week, new one comes out tomorrow), a basic watch school (why do we have jewels), a look back at a forgotten watch (the Spaceman this week), and a weekend read that looks at the history of horology (this time, it’s cosmonaut watches).

In this issue:

  • The Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 Is The Most Old School New Panerai Release

  • Casio Introduces Five New Mudmaster-Inspired Two-Tone G-Shocks

  • Bulova Picks A Winner From It’s Back Catalogue With The 70s Inspired Super Seville Reissue

  • The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone Is As Minimalist As It Gets

Today’s reading time: 7 minutes and 6 seconds

👂What’s new

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After a few rough years in which they were plagued with some serious scandals regarding their movements, Panerai has decided to go all out. New materials, crazy dials, complex movements, even that crazy Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 which used mechanical power to run a microgenerator that lights up the LED lume of the watch. Parallel to that they introduced smaller versions of their iconic watches which cut down on water resistance to a level that’s not useful in day-to-day life, let alone a sporty setting, making them bizarre choices for a legendary dive watches. It’s all a rollecoaster of emotions and decisions. So, I like their latest release, the boutique-only Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 which brings it back to the basics - chunky case, great dial, hand-wound movement.

Panerai doesn’t give measurements for the new PAM1624, apart from the width of 44mm, so I’m going to make some assumptions here. I’m not guessing, just basing it on existing models. I believe that the 44mm cushion-shaped stainless steel case likely measures 13.05mm thick and has a lug-to-lug of 53mm. You know this case, with its huge lock-down crown protector, brushed case and polished fixed bezel, as well as the domed sapphire crystal. I kind of wish the water resistance is a bit higher than 100 meters with a case as robust as this.

The dial is just as classic as the case, but with a bit of understated flair. Instead of a traditional black background, the PAM1624 gets a sunray brushed deep green dial, paired with a very light green Super-LumiNova on the numerals, markers and hands. Being a Luminor Logo model, you get the historic Officine Panerai logo near the 6 o’clock position and a running seconds at 9 o’clock.

Inside the watch you won’t found a fancy movement. It is the manual wind P.6000 calibre with 3-day power reserve. It beats at the 21,600vph frequency, and has an Incabloc anti-shock device. Panerai always gives you a sporty strap option, and something more serious — the sporty is a green rubber strap and the more serious thing is a brown leather strap.

The new Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 is available from Panerai’s physical and online boutiques now and is priced at €6,200. That’s way less than most Panerai watches as of late, but if they just knocked off €300 off that price, it would have been such a better look. See more on the Panerai website.

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There’s this somewhat annoying fashion trend that you might have noticed if you live in a bigger city. There are hundreds of people who dress as if they were just about to start the Appalachian Trail at best, and are preparing to depart Everest base camp at worst. Sure, outerwear meant for recreation is well made, comfortable and often good looking, but it’s also outerwear meant for recreation, not heading to dinner. The trend is called gorpcore, which is just a wonderfully apt name for the trend. And this entire fashion movement is made up of earth tones — blacks, browns, olive greens and greys. And now the people who dress in gorpcore have a new watch to wear, as Casio is introducing a new range of G-Shock watches with a two tone color scheme.

While not officially stated by G-Shock, it’s pretty clear that the inspiration for these watches, along with gorpcore, has been the Mudmaster, perhaps the toughest and most capable watch that G-Shock makes. The collection carries black bezels, brown or olive green bands, and orange or yellow accents. Also notable is that each model has a positive LCD display. Also, this is the dirst time in a while that the cult favorite GX-56 also gets a positive LCD display.

The five watches included in this release are the GX-56TU-1A5, the GA-100TU-1A3 and GA-710TU-1A3 with olive green bands and the DW-6900TU-1A5 and GA-110TU-1A5 with light brown bands. The DW-6900TU-1A5 has a textured aluminum front light button, as does the GA-710TU. All five, of course, are shock-resistant and have 200 meters of water resistance. Each watch also has a stopwatch, a countdown timer, a 12/24 hour format, and tells the time in 48 cities.

The watches are available now and at a price much, much lower than a Mudmaster. The DW6900TU-1A5, GA710TU-1A3 and GA100TU-1A3 are priced at $110, the GA110TU-1A5 at $130, and the GX56TU-1A5 at $150. See more on the G-Shock website.

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This newsletter tries to keep it simple. Provide you with four to five news items every day, as prompt as possible. But sometimes, things slip through the cracks. Even for a few months. Like this watch. I completely missed the fact that a couple of months back Bulova re-introduced one of their legendary watches from the 1970s, the Super Seville. Available in four colors, the Super Seville might be a sleeper dress watch for this year.

Bulova sticks pretty close to the original here, while giving it a really refreshing modern look. Not much info is given on the size of the watch, other than the 38mm width, but seeing how it’s powered by a thin movement, and it looks thin in photos, it should fit most wrists quite well. The case has a TV shape, it’s made out of stainless steel, three of them untreated and one with a full gold treatment, and has an integrated 3-link stainless steel bracelet. On top is a grooved coin edge bezel around a flat sapphire crystal with a date magnifier.

The dial is super simple and super elegant. On the very edge is a tiny, almost invisible, minute track that also holds roman numeral hour markers. The primary hour markers are applied batons, seemingly without any lume. The baton hands, however, do have lume. The stainless steel watches feature silver colored hardware, while the gold watch has gold colored hardware. The date at sits at 3 o’clock. At 12 o’clock the Bulova logo replaces the baton marker and at 6 o’clock you’ll see the 262kHz mark, hinting at what’s inside. There are four dial colors to choose from — cream white on the gold model and silver, blue and green on the silver watches.

Inside the watch is a very well known movement, one that everyone should have in their collection, the in-house HPQ Precisionist movement that Bulova has made for years. The 262kHz movement usually comes in much larger cases from Bulova, with 40mm I believe to be the smallest (I could definitely be wrong on that one, their website is not really cooperating for me), so this is a refreshing case for the movement. It has a three-pronged quartz crystal and thanks to its 262kHz beat rate, it has a sweeping seconds hand that beats 16 times per second and is accurate within five seconds per month. The eight time increase in frequency does not drain the battery any more than a regular quartz movement.

The Bulova Super Seville has been on sale for some time, like I said, so you should be able to get one pretty easy. The silver colored watches are priced at €640, while the gold tone is priced at €685. See more on the Bulova website.

We’re at a crossroads and I need your help to decide what to do. I really want to keep this newsletter ad-free with the generous support of you, the readers. However…

I have some great news and some not so great news. The great news is that this newsletter is growing so fast and so large that I couldn’t have imagined this in my wildest dreams. The bad news is that these large numbers mean more cost for the email service I’m using. While email is free, sending thousands of them per day gets very expensive very fast. We’re looking at $2,000+ per year this year and more in the coming years.

I’m incredibly glad that this is the extent of my problems, but it is a problem I need to address sooner rather than later. If you think keeping our little cosmos we created here ad-free is a good idea, you can hop on over to Patreon (or, if you don’t like Patreon, reply to this email and we’ll figure something else out) and help out. But don’t worry, your help will not go unappreciated — subscribe to the Patreon and you get 5 additional longform posts per week which include an overview of interesting watches for sale, early access to reviews (it’s the Seiko x Giugiaro SCED035 "Ripley" from last week, new one comes out tomorrow), a basic watch school (why do we have jewels), a look back at a forgotten watch (the Spaceman this week), and a weekend read that looks at the history of horology (this time, it’s cosmonaut watches).

4/

Haute horology can take on many forms, but in a vast majority of cases, they are not simple things. Even when these watches try to be simple and minimalist, they still include a lot of details that will show off craftsmanship. Andersen Genève went the other way. To celebrate 40 years of watchmaker Svend Andersen’s career in 2020, Andersen Genève released a platinum watch with a blue guilloché dial. Four years later, things get even simpler, with a completely black jade stone dial.

The new Jumping Hours comes in a very familiar case that measures 38mm wide and 9.2mm thick, made out of platinum and with a minimalist pink gold crown. It’s a super interesting case shape — fully round with brushed sides and four very sloping lugs. The lugs and the very thin bezel have a mirror polish finish. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The dial is where things get pretty impressive, as the entire surface is covered in a 0.4mm thin sliver of black jade. From pictures it looks completely black, but Andersen Genève claims that when you look very closely at the dial you discover a whole world of striations from the natural stone’s veins. There’s a single cutout at the 12 o’clock position which shows the jumping hours and at 6 o’clock there’s a railway-style chapter ring printed in pink gold with a pink gold hand that tracks the running seconds. The Andersen Genève name is rendered in pink gold just above the jumping hours aperture.

Inside is the automatic Frédéric Piguet 11.50 calibre with a jumping hours module developed in-house by Andersen Genève. The movement has twin barrels which give it 72 hours of power reserve. The finishing on the movement is, of course, stunning, with hand-finished Côtes de Genève, mirror-polished screw heads and chamfering, along with a stunning 18k pink gold rotor decorated with a hand-guilloché barleycorn pattern. The watch comes on a hand-stitched black suede strap with a platinum buckle.

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is limited to 50 pieces and priced at CHF 52,800. See more on the Andersen Genève website.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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✍️Chrono Critique

Watch reviews, written by me

The Seiko Ripley is inspired by the watch Ellen Ripley wore in Aliens, one of the most influential movies in my life. Really, I can think of very things that influenced me as much as the Alien franchise did.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

  • Robert Sanchez brings us a rich profile of Lee Maxwell, age 94, whose love of washing machines inspired him to create Lee Maxwell’s Washing Machine Museum, home to 1,500 antique washing machines, all housed on his property in Eaton, Colorado.

  • In the 1970s, David Duke was grand wizard of the Ku Klux Klan. In the 80s, he was elected to Louisiana’s house of representatives – and the kinds of ideas he stood for have not gone away. This is how neo-Nazi David Duke won office.

  • Lawrence Abu Hamdan is an artist. He’s also an investigator. He calls himself a “private ear.” To put it succinctly, he listens to crimes—the audio captured in phone recordings and CCTV footage, for instance—in search of the truth.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

Hodinkee, more specifically Ben Clymer, made a huge announcement that following rumors they were going out of business due to some very unfortunate decisions, that the site would shut down their retail arm and focus more on content that made Hodinkee great. Can’t wait to see that. One of their first pieces of content really does feel like Hodinkee at it’s peak, a Talking Watches with famed chef Daniel Bouloud. Now, whatever your feelings about the Dink and Clymer are, there’s not denying that Boulud has a pretty fantastic collection going on there.

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us

  • LOOKING TO BUY: Here’s a crazy request. One of you is looking to buy the Lotēc No. 7.5. Sure, it’s a big ask, but if any of you have one and want to sell, reach out to and I’ll put you in touch

  • SOLD: Well, not really new. It’s a great looking mid-90s Tudor Submariner 75090, offered for sale by a member of the It’s About Time reader crew. I love the way it looks and seems to be in great condition. Check it out over on Chrono24.

  • LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

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-Vuk

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