Patek Finally Reveals Their Only Watch Creation, Likely To Sell For 20 million; Nodus Releases New And Great Contrail GMT Line; TAG Heuer Partners With Indy 500, Longines With The Kentucky Derby

In this issue:

• Patek Philippe Finally Reveal Their Only Watch Creation, The Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010

• Nodus Releases Third Iteration Of The Contrail GMT Line Dedicated To International Travel

• TAG Heuer Releases A Very Niche Formula 1 Chonograph With An Indy 500 Parnership

• Longines Releases The New Mini DolceVita Which Pays Homage To The Legendary Kentucky Derby

Today’s reading time: 7 minutes and 36 seconds

👂What’s new

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Patek Philippe Finally Reveal Their Only Watch Creation, The Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010

For years, Only Watch was the hottest auction in the watch world. Every two years, some of the biggest names in watchmaking would create a piece unique to be auctioned off and the proceeds going to fund research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). It was supposed to take place last year, but was postponed after serious questions were posed about where all the raised money was going. A number of prominent brands withdrew their participation because it was all a bit too shady. It was a complete mess, I wrote about it here (just a heads up, this one is on my Patreon, and I just unlocked the post for everyone) but now the organizers claim they have undergone an independent audit and have scheduled the auction for May 10 this year. While they have indeed published their audit, there are still a ton of unanswered questions which the watch brands seem to be ignoring (I might do a separate post on those). The biggest name to return, actually to unveil their watch for the auction as they haven’t done so before, is Patek Phillipe, with their Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch” with a stainless steel case, guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices.

It comes in a stainless steel case, an increasing rarity for Patek, that measures 44.8mm wide and 12.3mm thick. The case is, naturally, highly polished and on top, surrounding the sapphire crystal, is a beautiful concave bezel. It’s a simple case with a centrally mounted crown pusher and two hidden buttons between the 6 o’clock lugs that activate the sonnerie mechanism.

The case is nice, but the dial is what is truly stunning. Part of the Rare Handcrafts line with Patek, it’s made out of 18k gold that is then engine turned by hand on a manually-operated rose engine to create the swirling-spiral pattern. The guilloche surface is then covered with enamel paint which, after firing, gets an incredible blue-green color. All 12 hour indices are diamonds and the hands are dauphine shaped.

Inside is the GS 36-750 PS IRM movement which incorporates a grande and petite sonnerie function that strikes the time as it passes in full or quarter strike mode. You can also use the crown pusher to activate the minute repeater on demand. The movement has twin mainsprings, one for timekeeping and the other for the striking mechanism. The watch comes on a dark blue-green alligator strap.

The watch will go on sale on May 10, and the official estimate is 1,500,000 – 1,800,000 CHF. This, of course, is laughable. It likely won’t become the record-breaking watch, that was the steel ref. 6300A which sold at Only Watch for CHF 31 million. But seeing as how it’s the second most complicated Patek that heads to Only Watch, it should easily sell for more than CHF 20 million.

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Nodus Releases Third Iteration Of The Contrail GMT Line Dedicated To International Travel

You remember how last year was a fantastic year for TAG Heuer. They released a dozen or so watches, with practically zero duds, and ushered in a whole new era for the brand that was struggling a bit with their identity. A microbrand like Nodus was not in any trouble, completely aware of what their identity is, but it seems a bit that this will be their year. After a very successful run they had with the Sector GMT last year, they kicked off 2024 with a collaboration with Raven watches on the incredible TrailTrekker watch. A bit over a month later, they’re back with a brand new line of watches, one dedicated to international travel, called the Contrail GMT. Technically, it’s not a brand new line, but rather a third iteration of the Contrail watch.

I’ll just come out and say it that in a world where people believe we are being poisoned by chemtrails, it’s an absolutely brilliant move to name a watch the Contrail, after the after the vapor trails left behind in the sky by planes. If the case of the new Contrail looks familiar, that’s because it debuted on the mentioned TrailTrekker. This means it’s made out of stainless steel, measures 39.5mm wide, 11.8mm thick and has a 46.6mm lug-to-lug, which are just about perfect proportions for a seemingly chunky adventure watch. The case gets a combination of highly polished and brushed surfaces. On top is a box-shaped sapphire crystal surrounded by a bezel that has a 24-hour insert. It comes in either all black or a black and white bezel. Lume on the bezel is particularly attractive, with the numerals glowing on the black bezel and the whole white part glowing on the black and white version. Water resistance is 200 meters.

Like most Nodus dials, the one on the new Contrail GMT is very clean and legible. The dials come in four colors, all of which have different finishes. The black and beige dial have a rough sand-grain texture to them, the white one gets a matte finish, while the blue gets a shiny sunburst effect. All the colorways are contrasted perfectly with little pops of color on the text on the dial and on the GMT hand. The watches get plenty of lume on the dial side as well, with the indices and hands getting a lot of blue glowing BGW9 Super LumiNova.

Inside, as expected, is the already legendary Miyota Cal. 9075 automatic GMT movement. It’s not a particularly special movement, but it is currently the most accessible third-party movement with a flyer-style GMT, meaning that you independently adjust the local hour hand. It beats at 28,800bph and has a 42 hour power reserve. The watches come on the latest generation of the Nodex flatlink bracelet with their tool less NodeX clasp.

Orders for the new Nodus Contrail GMT open on Friday, April 26th at 9am PST and deliveries will happen immediately. Price is set at $825, a pretty decent price for what looks to be a great watch. See more on the Nodus website.

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TAG Heuer Releases A Very Niche Formula 1 Chonograph With An Indy 500 Parnership

Despite not being the official timekeeper since 2004, losing the spot to Rolex, TAG Heuer has been deeply linked to Formula 1 for decades. They sponsored Ferrari in the 1970s, McLaren in the 80s and are now a prominent sponsor of the dominant Red Bull team. Their link with the sport is cemented in the fact that they have a whole model line called Formula 1. Interestingly, this collection is not reserved for just F1 themed watches, as demonstrated with their new limited edition made in conjunction with the legendary Indy Car race driven on the iconic Indianapolis Motor Speedway - the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Indy 500, which will surely be very controversial.

TAG Heuer doesn’t give exact measurements for their watches, so finding the exact size of this case took a lot of sleuthing. And I still might be wrong, so take this with a grain of salt. We know that the case is made out of stainless steel and measures 43mm wide. What we are guessing a bit is that it’s 11.5mm thick. Now this might be my mistake, but it also could be true since the watch is not equipped with a thick mechanical chronograph movement, but more on that later. If you say that 43mm is way too big for you, keep in mind that the lug-to-lug is not completely unmanageable at 48mm.

On top of the watch is a sapphire crystal, along with a fixed bezel that has a black aluminum insert with a tachymeter scale only, instead of the ‘Tachymeter’ text you get the first Indy 500 reference. The crown has a small guard, while the 2 o’clock pusher has a subtle red ring on it, the color of Indy. Water resistance is 200 meters.

Moving to the dial, it’s rendered in a rough textured and painted black, to resemble the color and texture of apshalt. Surrounding the dial is a red rehaut with white minute markings, while the dial has very large Arabic numerals. Speaking of the numerals, all of them are white, except for 11 which is red, an homage to 1911, the year that the Indy 500 started, and 2011, the year TAG Heuer first teamed up with the Indy 500. There’s a red central chronograph hand, running seconds at 3 o’clock, a 1/10 second display at 6 and a 30 minute totaliser at 9 o’clock. The 6 o’clock dial is white with the Indianapolis Motor Speedway logo on it.

Inside, a bit of a disappointment to some. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Indy 500 is powered by a Swiss quartz movement. Unfortunately, TAG doesn’t give any details on what the movement is or any of the specs. The watch comes on a brushed three-link bracelet.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Indy 500 is a special edition, but doesn’t seem to be limited in numbers. It might, however, limit its presence in the watch market with the price it sells for - €2.350. A LOT of money for a watch that might be as exciting as turning left for 500 miles. See more on the TAG Heuer website.

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Longines Releases The New Mini DolceVita Which Pays Homage To The Legendary Kentucky Derby

While Longines has been partnered with the iconic Kentucky Derby horse race since only 2011, the race has been around for 150 years. And to celebrate the 150th anniversary, Longines has created a special edition of their Mini Dolce Vita model. Made in, of course, only 150 pieces.

This is very true to the regular Mini DolceVita, with several distinct differences. The stainless steel case measures 21.50mm wide, just 6.75mm thick and with a 29mm lug-to-lug. The bezel of the case has 38 diamonds in two rows on either side. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, but I’m not sure you even want to wash your hands with it, considering the amount of leather it comes on. But more on that later.

The Mini DolceVita is very well known for its special Cosmo sector dial. It’s a sand blased silvered and matte white surface on which a series of discs is applied to with a mix of Roman numerals and batons for the hours. The hands are rose gold, just like the hand on the small seconds at 6 o’clock.

Inside is a high-precision L178 quartz movement, so nothing special to write about. What is special is the incredible strap it comes on, made out of screaming pink nappa leather that wraps around the wearer’s hand on both sides.

The Longines Mini DolceVita Kentucky Derby goes on sale May 4th, at the start of the race, and it’s limited to 150 pieces. You will be able to buy it at the Kentucky Derby, as well as online. Priced at $3,900. See more on the Longines website.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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A review of the colorless 41mm Tudor Black Bay

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Hands on with the Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium

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A review of the Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Moon Phases

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

The Rivelta Metrodive isn’t an entirely traditional dive watch

The Metrodive’s stainless steel case is nicely compact, measuring 39mm wide, 46mm long, and 13mm thick with a 20mm lug gap. It’s a refreshing departure from typically large dive watches. Yes, I realize that men’s watches are gradually shrinking, but it is still a bit of a novelty to release a diver under 40mm, and I’m here for it. I love my massive dive watches; I just don’t want to wear them every day. I wouldn’t hesitate to strap on a Metrodive every morning — as I have for the past two weeks. It fits my 6.75″ wrist well and does not leap out to attack every doorframe I pass.

Read the whole review on The Time Bum

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• William Shatner, believe it or not, is 93 years old. He looks like he’s in his late 60s. But more important than his youthful looks is the fact that the is one of the most important actors of several generations. And, as Quillette argues, had he been born 30 years later, he would have dominated the second golden age of television.

• Speaking of old people and television, the creator of the ‘Law & Order,’ ‘Chicago’ and ‘FBI’ franchises became a billionaire producing some 200 hours of television a year. And he intends to work in TV until he is 100 years old. Now he has a plan to transform streaming. The lesson? Crime pays.

• After two decades of research and development, WA 38 lands this fall. It could disrupt an entire industry. WA 38 is an apple. This is a fantastic look into how modern food is developed, produced and brought to market.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

My childhood dreams are coming true. Deadpool. Wolverine. A rated R movie. This cannot get any better, I’m telling you. This will be the movie of the year.