Seiko Adds Three Mid-Size Cases To Solar Diver Collection; Bell & Ross Goes For All The Colors; Maen Releases Their Best Watch; Moser And Bucherer, Vacheron And French Designer Ora ïto Team Up

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. Seiko is getting really difficult to figure out. I’m sure that they know what they are doing, they sell millions of watches, but I would love to be in their marketing meetings.

In this issue:

• Seiko Adds Three Mid-Size Cases To The Affordable Prospex Solar Diver Collection

• Bell & Ross Goes For All The Colors With An Iridescent Version Of The BR-X5

• Maen Releases What Might Be Their Best Watch To Date, The New Lunar Classic 36

• H. Moser & Cie. Launches Bucherer Exclusive Pioneer and Endeavour Trilogy in Amber-Sand

• Vacheron Teams Up With French Designer Ora ïto To Celebrate the 20th Anniversary Of The Patrimony

Today’s reading time: 8 minutes and 38 seconds

👂What’s new

1/

Seiko Adds Three Mid-Size Cases To The Affordable Prospex Solar Diver Collection

With every new release it seems that Seiko makes one step forward and two steps back into bringing order into their overall collection. They’ve done some cleanup in the Prospex Diver line this year, upping the water resistance, but also upping the prices, while keeping the questionable movements. Now, they are updating the Prospex Solar Diver line with a brand new case size, one that would easily be considered a mid-sized case, as it sits between a larger and a smaller existing offering. If I told you to guess, you would likely say that a mid-size case would be in the 37-39mm range, right? Well, no. For the Solar Diver, it’s 41mm, which is not really mid, but it does sit between the existing 42.79mm (what a measurement…) and the more reasonable 38.5mm.

So sure, the new 41mm size is large, but do keep in mind that this is a dive watch and it’s built to be large. While the thickness is not unreasonable, especially for a watch with 200 meters of water resistance, at 11.3, the 48,8mm lug-to-lug measurement might be a problem for some. Good news, at least in the world of Seiko, is that you get a sapphire crystal on top. There are three versions of the new Solar Divers. The SNE595 which comes in a stainless steel case and with a blue and red bezel insert, the SNE597 which is also in an untreated case and with a black bezel insert and the SNE599 which gets a black coating and black insert.

The dials keep it simple, blue on the SNE595 and black on the other two, with dots, rectangles and triangles rendered in LumiBrite used as hour markers. At 3 o’clock is a simple date aperture with a white date wheel inside. The broad sword hands are also chock full of lume. The sole text on the dial is the Seiko logo at 12 and the Prospex logo and “Diver’s 200m” at 6.

The Solar Diver name kind of gives away what’S inside. It’s the V157 quartz movement that can be charged through the dial by sunlight. Keep it in the dark and the battery life is about 10 months. Accuracy is not something you’ll have to worry here, but it’s +/- 15 seconds per month. All three watches come on stainless steel bracelet — the SNE599 has a color matched one — which won’t leave you breathless.

The new Seiko Prospex Solar Diver 41mm collection goes on sale in November so pricing is a bit of an unknown in some territories. I’ll just say for now that the SNE595 and SNE597 should be priced at €560, while the SNE599 would set you back €630. Now, that’s certainly not cheap, but in a world where Seiko is trying to push into another price bracket, this is fine. See more on the Seiko website.

2/

Bell & Ross Goes For All The Colors With An Iridescent Version Of The BR-X5

I swear, before September of this year, I used the word Iridescent maybe a total of 50 times in my life. But in the past couple of years, there was an iridescent De Bethune, an iridescent Grand Seiko, an iridescent Ulysse Nardin Freak… I guess we found what the color of the year is, even though “iridescent” isn’t a color. And this is a trend that the French brand Bell & Ross caught on very early, releasing a model that’s actually called the BR-X5 Iridescent.

The BR-X5 collection is a sportier version of their iconic square, aircraft-instrument-inspired, BR-05. As such it comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41×41mm and is 12.8mm thick. The case is brushed with a wide band of a polished edge on the square bezel, which surrounds a flat round sapphire crystal. The sides of the case are hollowed out for a more futuristic look, and the crown gets angular guards. Water resistance is 100 meters.

Then, there’s the dial. As the name would suggest, it’s very iridescent. To get this rainbow-like effect in which you get a bunch of colors reflecting from the dial, depending on the angle you’re looking at it, is achieved by applying multiple layers of PVD coating. The dial transitions from green to blue to violet, and the base of the dial gets a sunburst brushed finish, helping with the iridescence. But other than the dial, this is a regular BR-X5 dial, with a large flange with a 60 minute scale, a power reserve subdial at 9 o’clock and a date aperture at 3 that displays three dates. The hour markers are applied batons, while the hands are rhodium-plated, skeletonized and filled with Super-LumiNova X1.

Inside, you won’t find a modified Sellita like in a lot of other models from them. Instead, it’s the calibre BR-CAL.323, made by Kenissi and COSC certified. It beats at 4Hz and has a 70 hour power reserve. The watch can be had on either an integrated-style stainless steel bracelet or a white rubber strap.

The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Iridescent is available now at Bell & Ross boutiques and their website, and priced at €8,500 on rubber or €8,990 on steel. See more on the Bell & Ross website.

3/

Maen Releases What Might Be Their Best Watch To Date, The New Lunar Classic 36

While we best know the Swedish indie brand Maen for its intriguing chronographs and a pretty sensational vintage-inspired square watch, it’s easy to forget that they launched in 2017 with a moonphase. Now, I am far from talking in their name, I don’t even know them, but what I do know is that I am rarely happy with my first attempt at anything. Could it be that the folks behind Maen also weren’t enthusiastic? Could be, because they just introduced their first moonphase since that first watch, the all-new Lunar Classic 36, and it’s pretty spectacular.

Made out of stainless steel, it translates its vintage look to vintage proportions. It measures 36mm wide, 11.35mm thick and has a 44mm lug-to-lug. On top is a box-style sapphire crystal, surrounded by a polished, fixed and unmarked bezel. The rest of the case gets a brushed finish. You’ll also notice that the lugs have a very unique straight look with a pointed tip. Water resistance is 50 meters.

Then, you get the even more retro dials. There are four colors to choose from — cream, blue, salmon, or graphite. They all have the same circular brushing on the base of the dial and a textured cover for the moonphase disc. The sky on the moonphase disc is glossy, and the moon and stars are painted gold. The entire dial has a chrosshairs painted on it for more retro goodness. Around the full circumference of the dial is a raised ring that holds the lumed hour markers. The hands are dauphine shaped and also lume filled.

Inside the watch is the Sellita SW280-1, based on the ubiquitous, robust and easily servicable SW200. It beats at 4Hz and has a 40 hour power reserve. Maen gives you an option upgrade from an Elaboré Grade to a Top Grade finish, which brings nicer movements and swaps the solid caseback for a transparent one. The watch comes on a perforated black rubber strap but you MUST buy the additional brushed flat-link bracelet which looks spectacular with five tiny links that bend independently for what must be ultimate comfort.

The Maen Lunar Classic 36 is now available for pre-order, at a lower price. The Elaboré Grade on the rubber strap will set you back €1,049, while the top grade is priced at €1,486.50. After today, the last day of pre-orders, the price for both will jump up €100. If you want to add the genius bracelet, it will cost you €109 today, going up to €159 tomorrow. See more on the Maen website.

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H. Moser & Cie. Launches Bucherer Exclusive Pioneer and Endeavour Trilogy in Amber-Sand

It really is great to see that Bucherer hasn’t significantly changed since Rolex acquired them. There were genuine concerns that the merger would turn Bucherer, one the best retailers in the world, into just another Rolex store. But no, Bucherer seems to be trucking on with business as usual. Like with their latest release, a collaboration with H. Moser & Cie on three special watches, all with amber sand-coloured dials — the Pioneer Centre Seconds, the Pioneer Tourbillon and the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon as a piece unique.

Starting off with the simplest of the three, we have the Pioneer Centre Seconds. It comes in 40mm wide brushed stainless steel, with the familiar Pioneer shape. On top is a domed sapphire crystal and a thin bezel, while water resistance is 120 meters. But the case takes second place to the dial which features the amber sand color, slight texture and the signature Moser gradient effect. There are no logos, no text, no date window, just faceted, polished applied hour indices and leaf shaped hands filled with lume. Inside is the automatic calibre HMC 200 which beats at 21,600vph and has a 72 hour power reserve. The watch comes on a perforated khaki rubber strap.

Then, there’s the way more advanced and expensive Pioneer Tourbillon. It comes in the same 40mm wide stainless steel case that’s a comfortable 12mm thickness with the same domed sapphire crystal on top. The dial has the same texture, hardware and color as the Centre Seconds, but it ditches the seconds hand for a tourbillon that can be seen through the 6 o’clock aperture. Powering the watch is the calibre HMC 804, which also beats at 21,600vph and has a a same 72 hour power reserve. The watch gets the same rubber strap as the Centre Seconds.

And last, there’s the crazy Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon. This one uses the Endeavour case made out of titanium with a Teflon sliding bolt and runner for the minute repeater mechanism. It also measures 40mm wide, and the dial gets similar colors and the same texture, but now in grand feu enamel. On display through the dial is the minute repeater mechanism, as well as the tourbillon regulator. The watch is powered by the hand-wound calibre HMC 904, which has a 90 hour power reserve. On the movement you’ll find the signature double Moser stripes on the plates and bridges. The watch comes on a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap.

Now, availability and pricing varies wildly for these three models. The Pioneer Centre Seconds will be made in 88 pieces and it’s priced at €15,990. The Pioneer Tourbillon is limited to just 18 pieces and priced at €63,200. And lastly, only one of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon will be made, with an appropriately large price tag of €395,00. All of the watches will be available at Bucherer and you can check them out on their website.

5/

Vacheron Teams Up With French Designer Ora ïto To Celebrate the 20th Anniversary Of The Patrimony

The Patrimony was Vacheron Constantin’s interpretation of the slim dress watches that they produced back in the 1950s. It’s been around since 2004, and for the last 20 years they have perfected the Patrimony collection with slim bezeled round cases, domed dials and beautiful finishings, along with complications like a perpetual calendar and a moon phase. Now, to mark the 20th anniversary, Vacheron has teamed up with French designer Ito Morabito, more widely known as Ora ïto for a truly special dial.

Ora ïto chose the 40mm Self-Winding model for the collaboration which measures 40mm wide and 8.5mm thick and is made out of 18k 3N yellow gold. Again, despite being made out of gold, it’s extremely understated with a small crown and thin bezel.

But who cares about the case when you have a dial like this, designed by ïto. The base of the dial is gold, onto which a ripple of concentric rings has been engraved into, expanding from the middle. The rings meet a slightly taller and thicker gold band that separates the dial into sectors. On the outer ring you’ll find gold pearl minute markers and the slim applied gold hour markers. The hands are, of course, gold and curved to follow the contours of the dial. There’s a small aperture at the 6 o’clock position for the date.

Inside is the in-house self-winding calibre 2450 Q6 which beats at 4Hz and has a 40h power reserve. Of course, it has the Hallmark of Geneva certification, with decorations ranging from circular graining on the mainplate, Côtes de Genève on the bridges to an openworked gold rotor with the Maltese cross symbol. The watch comes on a burgundy calfskin strap.

The Patrimony x Ora ïto is, of course, limited to 100 pieces and priced at €38,600. See more on the Vacheron Constantin website.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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A review of the Henry Archer Nordsø NEON III

2/

Hands-On with the Sternglas Naos Pro Automatik

3/

A review of the Second Hour Sattelberg Mk2

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

The new JB200 Maxi Dial introduces a great, clean, version of the popular diver

What stayed is the characteristic Maxi Dial layout with its slightly bigger hour markers and red 13–24-hour markings. For those familiar with the brand’s history, this dial is based on the one in the classic JB300 from the 1980s. For this new version, the brand combined that dial with the JB200 case, and in my opinion, it’s one of the revived brand’s best releases so far.

Read the whole review on Fratello

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• In 2019, a fire nearly destroyed the crown jewel of France—and the nation set a breakneceek five-year deadline to bring it back from the ashes. This is the story of how an army of artisans turned back centuries to restore Notre-Dame by hand, and wound up reviving something even greater than the cathedral itself.

• New York Magazine goes inside the Patriot Wing. January 6 rioters are running their jail block like a gang. They’re leaving more radicalized than ever.

• In a piece that’s equal parts history and science, Elizabeth Kolbert visits Greenland to meet and learn from people studying climate change. While it’s undeniable that human-fuelled global warming is altering our weather patterns in surprising ways, our influence on the planet is but one part of its long and complex story.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

This movie better be good. It looks good. But if they mess it up, I will be so incredibly sad. I really does look fantastic, though.

💵Pre-loved precision

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• LOOKING TO BUY: Here’s a crazy request. One of you is looking to buy the Lotēc No. 7.5. Sure, it’s a big ask, but if any of you have one and want to sell, reach out to and I’ll put you in touch

• SOLD: Well, not really new. It’s a great looking mid-90s Tudor Submariner 75090, offered for sale by a member of the It’s About Time reader crew. I love the way it looks and seems to be in great condition. Check it out over on Chrono24.

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

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-Vuk