Seiko Brings Back The Legendary 62MAS, AP Has Five New Dimond-Set 37mm Royal Oak Offshores, New Watches From Breitling, Dumoreau, G-Shock And Andersen Geneve

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. It’s nice to see Seiko bring back such a faithful recreation of it’s legendary diver, but it seems like the price point is not backed up with quality. You can get a COSC-certified Tudor for just $100 more.

Also, invite your friends or fill out the survey to enter the giveaway. We’re giving away four Seiko 5 Sports SKX ‘Midi’ in a color of your choice.

In this issue:

• Seiko Brings Back The 62 MAS, Their Very First Diver’s Watch

• AP Shows Five New 37mm Royal Oak Offshores With Diamonds And Gemstones

• Breitling Releases The New Super Chronomat B01 44 U.S. Edition

• Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut With An Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

• G-SHOCK Takes Inspiration From The Northern Lights For New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

Today’s reading time: 9 minutes and 1 seconds

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👂What’s new

1/

Seiko Brings Back The 62MAS, Their Very First Diver’s Watch, Again At A Price Point That’s Still Very High

The Seiko 6217-8000/8001, aka 62MAS has, rightfully so, been elevated to cult status. It was, after all, Seiko’s very first professional diver’s watch that the company made in 1965. It was the watch that started it all. And as such, it has become increasingly popular with collectors, boosting it’s price in the past ten years from something very affordable to a watch that easily sells for $5000. Seeing how collectors were being priced out of the cult vintage Seiko, the brand itself decided to cash in on the hype. Starting in 2017, Seiko started launching watches inspired by the 62MAS. Some were truer to the original, some less; some were better received, some less so; but the consensus among enthusiasts that they were all very ambitiously priced, to say the least.

Now, the Seiko is introducing the Prospex SJE093, the most aesthetically similar re-edition yet. While previous recreations were all over the place in terms of case size, the SJE093 sticks with the original - the same 38mm width and 12.5mm thick compared to the original 62MAS’ 13mm. And the rest of it is very similar to the original, as well. It has a large screw-down crown, which was seen on later 62MAS models, but it also has the slim and elegant hard-coated stainless steel insert of the original model.

The subtle sunburst grey dial is also a qote of the original watch and on top of it are the big, flat, rectangular indices, with a boldly framed date window at 3. The text on the dial looks just like it was printed in 1965, only now it’s updated with the current specs — 200m instead of a 150m depth rating. The indices, hands, and lume pip are filled with Seiko’s Lumibrite. And to give the SJE093 even more of a ’60s vibe, the watch comes on a high-strength silicone Tropic-style strap.

To reduce the thickness of the watch even more than the original version, Seiko gave this recreation a new movement, the new automatic caliber 6L37, which is a thinner version of the familiar 6L35. Other than the thickness, pretty much everything else remains the same - it has a 45-hour power reserve, and is antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m. It’s also advertised to be accurate between -10 and +15 seconds a day.

While it’s a great watch, it’s actually extremely expensive. It will be available for purchase in August and will retail for EUR 3,700. The watch might justify a portion of that price, but a movement that has -10 and +15 seconds a day should be a dealbreaker. The Black Bay 54 comes with a COSC certified movement and is only EUR 100 more expensive… See more on the Seiko webiste.

2/

AP Shows Five New 37mm Royal Oak Offshores With Diamonds And Gemstones

The Royal Oak company, also known as Audemars Piguet, has just announced they will be introducing new variants to the 37mm Royal Oak Offshore collection, nearly doubling the existing lineup. And the new models include four gem-set chronographs and a limited-edition black ceramic three-hander, released to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Offshore. Many, including me, like to poke fun of AP for being able to create just one watch, but you can’t complain when new Royal Oaks look like this.

First up are updates to the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 37mm models. It comes in 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, or stainless steel, all the versions come with gem-set bezels. The stainless steel model and one of the pink-gold models feature 32 brilliant-cut diamonds, while the yellow gold has a yellow-to-blue gradient of 32 baguette-cut green tsavorites and blue and yellow sapphires. The second rose gold model features 32 rubies, tsavorites, topaz, tanzanites, amethysts and orange, yellow, green, blue, violet and pink sapphires for a fantastic rainbow gradient.

These watches come with dials in blue, black, light blue, and salmon, with slight changes compared to their predecesors. Most significantly, the grooved that once held the hour markers is gone, instead filled out with more truncated pyramids. The chronographs’ hands and applied markers match their cases.

Then there’s the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition in a black ceramic cas. Of note on this case, the lug studs and crown guards are titanium and feature a knurling that gives the watch a sportier look than the other releases and that is exclusive to the Music Edition models. All the models are paired rubber straps equipped with AP’s proprietary interchangeable strap system. While the chronographs get more run-of-the-mill designs, the black rubber strap on the Music Edition has a mosaic pattern that echoes the dials pattern.

It was about time that AP paid more attention to their smaller watches, especially at a time where every single watch manufacturer is making smaller and smaller watches. Many of their competitors make unisex smaller watches, but AP is going another direction - they believe the 37mm watch should be feminine, whatever that may mean. However, I see no reason why these watches could not be unisex.

Pricing is all over the place. The blue dial in yellow gold and the black dial in pink gold Selfwinding Chronograph are priced at $110,900, while the light blue dial in pink gold is $57,900 and the salmon dial in stainless steel costs $40,500. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition 37mm is priced at $42,200 and it’s limited to 250 pieces. Check out more at AP’s website.

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Breitling Releases The New Super Chronomat B01 44 U.S. Edition

It’s weird for a brand that’s preparing to celebrate an important anniversary - 40 years - of a model to be releasing new variants just a year before said anniversary. But that’s exactly what Breitling is doing. Despite being one year from celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Chronomat, they keep releasing new models, ranging in sizes and complications. The latest addition at the top of the Chronomat size spectrum is a new Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 U.S. Edition.

It’s a huge watch. Not only is it 44mm wide and 14.4mm thick, it comes in very bright 18k red gold. This means that the watch weighs in at 330 grams on the matching Rouleaux bracelet — 100 grams on its own. A beast. The rose gold pairs very well with the sun-brushed navy blue dial. Black-snailed chronograph subdials increase contrast for legibility and look at home paired with the black ceramic bezel insert, crown, and chronograph pushers.

I’m admittedly not that familiar with the Chronomat line, so I’M not sure if this feature is available on all of them, or just this limited edition. The rider tabs on the bezel add protection to the sapphire crystal, but also allow for customization. The 3 and 9 o’clock tabs are interchangeable to alter your bezel from an elapsed time scale to a count-down scale depending on your needs. Brilliantly simple solution to a problem nobody realized existed.

Inside the watch is the COSC-certified chronometer Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 movement which has been showing up in pretty much all new Breitling models.

This is a limited watch that will be available only in 140 pieces and only in the U.S. It’s priced at $26,000 on the Rouleaux style rubber strap, but a 18k red-gold Rouleaux bracelet will cost you an additional $18k, bringing the price up to $44,000.

4/ 

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut With An Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

Most microbrand you come across out there will have in their catalogue a diver. Maybe a field watch. And, of course, a GMT. However, when everyone has those things, then nobody has them. If you don’t experiment with weird shapes or bold colors, it’s easy to blend in with all the new microbrands. However, then there are brands like Dumoreau, founded by Californian architect and designer Carlo Aiello. Their first watch, the DM01, was an accessible steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but not a diver. It was reminiscent of an Aquanaut, let’s say.

Now the brand is releasing their second watch, the DM02, and boy, what a watch for only your second attempt. It’s their take on the dress watch, drawing on the best of vintage pieces to create an affordable must-have elegant timepiece.

The elegant look starts off with the case. The polished 39mm steel case seems a bit large for a modern dress watch, but with 46mm lug to lug and a thickness of just 9.5mm, it should wear smaller. It has a screw down sapphire caseback that gives it 100 meters water resistance, which is nice to see on a dress watch.

The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, with a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track outside of it. The numerals maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name. You can also get the watch in four different dials, all of which are absolutely fantastic. The silver and black dials would be considered very traditional, but the salmon and stunning blue are real standouts. Also, the silver and salmon dials get beautiful blued hands, making that salmon version my absolute favorite.

The watch is powered by the Sellita SW 210-1 movement, which is a very well known manually wound movement that beats at 28,800 vph and has a 42 hours power reserve. The silver dial comes with a black Saffiano strap, the salmon dial with a calf-textured blue strap, the black dial comes with golden-brown suede strap, and the blue dial with a blue alligator strap

Priced at $1,200, it just might be the best dress watch you can buy today if you want something different, but not overpriced. The DM02 is limited to 300 pieces across its four dial options. You can see more on their website.

5/

G-SHOCK Takes Inspiration From The Northern Lights For New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

The MT-G is not a subtle watch. The huge case, oversized pushers, busy dial. It does not blend in under a suit jacket. So what did G-Shock do? They gave it a paintjob tat draws even more attention to it. Inspired by the vibrant colors of the aurora borealis, also known as the northern lights, the new MTG-B3000 comes in a chameleon-like color that spans from red to green.

The watch retains its stainless steel recrystallization and deep-layer hardening processes with a rainbow IP coating applied to the surface that brings the shimmering tones to life on the bezel and case. The shimmering is appropriate, since the aurora borealis always changes color. I can’t but mention one extremely interesting fact about the case. While the diameter of this watch is just bizzare - 50.9mm - it is surprisingly thin. And I don’t mean surprisingly thin for such a large watch. It measures 12.1mm in thickness. That makes it thinner than a bunch of modern chronographs, which is just crazy. The watch also has 200 meters of water resistance.

While the bezel and case are the real star of the show here, the dial accentuates the effect with its black base and dark purple and red accents. It’s legible while ceding the focal point to the bezel. The translucent purple strap integrates to the case and Dual Core Guard structure, compliments the big personality of the rest of the watch.

The MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval is available for pre-order right now from G-Shock for $1,400. Read more on the G-Shock website.

6/

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition, A Salmon Dialed Japanese Exclusive

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours is a stunning watch that uses the advantage of a jumping hour to minimize almost all time-indicating aspects of a watch and give the dial a spectacular treatment and show off craftsmanship. It was first released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial. Now, they are releasing a new version that keeps the same dial, only redoes it in pink gold, as an homage to its Japanese clients.

The dial is now in a salmon shade with impeccable execution. This model has been designed purely around the concept of showcasing the guilloché patterns that its workshops are able to produce. Visually it is similar to the Montre a Tact the brand made 20 years ago that features a digital wandering hours complication on the case band. The brand describes the pattern on the dial as “magic losange” and it reportedly takes several days to produce just one dial. The proprietary guilloché pattern takes the majority of the space on the dial, while the minute sub-dial is covered in more traditional clous de Paris.

The platinum case construction is high quality, with soldered lugs and a complimentary mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The case back has a sapphire window that shows the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1150 movement with its rotor and movement ring in a curious mix of pink and blue gold. On top of the base movement is a jumping hour module that was designed in-house.

This watch was launched at the Swiss Ambassador’s residence in Tokyo with only 50 to be made and sold to clients around the world for CHF48,800. Visit the brand’s website for more.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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Hands-on with the refreshing ice blue dials of the Zenith Defy Skyline

2/

A review of Parmigiani's new 42mm Tonda PF Sport Chronograph 

3/

Hands-On With The Arken Alterum — A Tough Titanium Dual-Time Watch

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition

The First Pitzmann derives its looks from an era rather than any one particular influence, and that’s the transitional period between men wearing pocket watches and wristwatches. The phasing between the two styles was a gradual and complicated one, however WWI played a huge part in proving the utility of wrist-worn watches. Those military watches generally focused on legibility and functionality such as the hacking seconds hand, allowing watches to be synchronised for tactical purposes. When the war ended, this style shifted into a more casual and even sophisticated realm, and that’s where The First Pitzmann lies. The white enamel dial with Italicised numerals and blued sword hands is classical and refined, evoking some of the Art Deco sensibilities of the 1930s. Legibility is still clear thanks to the train-track minute markers around the dial’s perimeter, as well as the generous markings on the small second’s subdial.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• Journalist and self-described avid hiker Bobby Alemán endures a challenging hike to explore a magical place called the Narrows. He recounts his experience in this beautiful ode to water.

• Most people do not run. Most people who run do not run long distances. Most people who run long distances do not run extremely long distances. And most people who run extremely long distances do not decide to do so on a 400-meter track for 24 hours straight. But this year, at least 36 people did, enough to fill the high school track field in Sharon Hills where Dawn to Dusk to Dawn was held in mid-May

• Secretive hedge fund Tiger Global changed the rules on tech investing. Then it all went bad. They are the masters of the Bubbleverse.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

Four friends set out bikepacking journey through the Balkans. A land of culture and breathtaking vistas that beckoned to be explored on two wheels. It’s About Time is written somewhere in these parts. I’m linking this video for two reasons - check out how beautiful this place is and just look at how fantastically it was filmed.

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

• FOR SALE: Longines Heritage Skin Diver, box and papers. €1400. Reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

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