Seiko Releases First Mechanical GMT Alpinist, Unimatic Works With Revolution On Distressed Blue U1, Bravur Completes Grand Tour Trio, New Watches From Reservoir, Ulysse Nardin And Armin Strom

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. Big news today for fans of more affordable watches after the absolute barrage of 100k+ watches from Geneva Watch Days. There’s still a couple of those to go through, but the Seiko is a good palette cleanser. Also, due to a lot of inquiry coming in after midnight, I’m making an exception and extending the end time for the Longines givaway until today, midnight CET.

I also have an ask for my dear readers. If, by chance, you have experience in ad sales and would like to work together, reach out 😀 

Want to win a Longines Spirit Zulu Time? Invite your friends or fill out the survey to enter right now as the giveaway ends today (for real).

In this issue:

• Seiko Adds First Mechanical GMT Movement To The Alpinist Collection

• Unimatic Teams Up With Revolution Once Again For A Distressed Watch In Shades Of Blue

• Bravur Watches Completes Cycling Grand Tour Trio With Red La Vuelta III

• With The Airfight Chronograph Reservoir Reservoir Took The Task Of Making A Pilot’s Watch Very Literaly

• Ulysse Nardin Releases Blast Free Wheel Marquetry with Silicon Dial

• Armin Strom Updates Their First Ever Manufacture Movement From 2010 With The One Week First Edition

Today’s reading time: 9 minutes and 21 seconds

Interested in sponsoring It’s About Time? Just reply to this email and we’ll put you in front of thousands of watch enthusiasts, including industry professionals from brands like Rolex, Omega and IWC.

👂What’s new

1/

Seiko Adds First Mechanical GMT Movement To The Alpinist Collection

The Alpinist is Seiko’s very popular take on the field watch genre. Through it’s many iterations it has become one of the brand’s best sellers, but as a true field watch it always lacked one functionality - a proper GMT complication. There is no other complication that better fits the ethos of the field watch, meant for exploring and adventure in all parts of the world. To be fair, the Alpinist has had a GMT, but only in a quartz version. But today Seiko introduces their first mechanical GMT references to the Alpinist line called the Prospex SPB377 and SPB379.

Seiko had big shoes to fill, as the quartz GMT Alpinist I mentioned has a bit of a cult following - back in 2003, Seiko made three versions of a GMT made out of titanium, with a super rare 500-piece SSASS limited edition for charity that is adored by fans. Go look these watches up, as they had a great design for the 24-hour scale that was placed between the regular hour markers, not something you see every day.

But for the two new versions, Seiko chose a more traditional approach to GMT time. We get two colors, the SPB377 with a blue dial and a blue leather strap and the SPB379 with a black dial and black leather strap. Both measure 39.5mm wide, 13.6mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 46.4mm, and are made out of stainless steel this time. So, it appears to be a regular Alpinist, but changes are apparent on the dial. Unlike the regular Alpinist which has numerals on even hours and indices on the odd ones, this version has numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. And unlike the previous GMT, this one has the 24-hour GMT scale integrated into the stainless steel bezel. You also get the usual compass scale on the rehaut that can rotated by operating the crown at 4 o’clock. The date window has moved from 3 o’clock to the worst spot - 4:30, but without the cyclops and neatly integrated into the look it doesn’t stand out as much to be an eyesore.

Both watches are powered by the new Seiko caliber 6R54, which also powers the recent GMT divers in the Prospex collection. This in-house automatic GMT movement operates at 21,600vph and gets 72 hours of power reserve. The new 6R54 allows you to set the 24-hour GMT hand independently, meaning it can be called an office GMT.

The SPB377 and SPB379 will be available as of October 1st, and both will have a list price of €1,200, about €500 less than the Prospex GMT divers with the same movement. See more on the Seiko website.

2/

Unimatic Teams Up With Revolution Once Again For A Distressed Watch In Shades Of Blue

For the second time Unimatic is working with legendary watch magazine Revolution to create a special edition watch. Their first collaboration was based on the Unimatic U1 GMT they called the Artic Fox, a completely white watch. This time, they are once again working with the Modello Uno, calling it the U1 MILSUB “BLUE” with three tones of, well, blue.

Speaking of the blue, Unimatic seems to be moving a bit towards press releases that could match those from Grand Seiko. The co-founders Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato go on to explain how they chose blue because it reminds them of the oceans, while also paying tribute to some of their favorite artists whose works often center around the hue - from Van Gogh’s Starry Night to Picasso’s Blue Period. A bit ridiculous, but at least the watch looks good.

The 40mm stainless steel case gets a cerulean blue Cerakote coating that has been intentionally distressed and stonewashed to chip and rub away. I’m not usually a fan of artificially wearing in objects, be their jeans, jackets or watches. Perhaps it would have been better for the owners to be able to develop their own patina on the watches but I see the problem this would pose if it were done in non-controlled conditions. The dark-colored dial is accentuated with geometric indexes and hands, which are lume-filled to ensure readability in dark conditions, while the bezel gets an even darker blue insert.

Inside the watch is the automatic-winding Sellita SW200-1 b movement, which provides up to 41 hours of power reserve. It’s a reliable movement with not much decoration, but that doesn’t really matter since it’s hidden behind a screw-down caseback engraved with the Unimatic and Revolution logo and a number for the watch which will be made in only 200 pieces. The watch comes on a blue nylon strap.

The watch went on sale yesterday, 10 a.m. EST/ 4 p.m. CET and there still seem to be pieces available on the Revolution website. It’s not a cheap special edition - it’s priced at €1,100, which is almost a 2x premium over the regular U1 model - but it’s close to other special editions from Unimatic. You can read up more on it on the Unimatic website or buy one for yourself on the Revolution website.

3/

Bravur Watches Completes Cycling Grand Tour Trio With Red La Vuelta III

I’m not sure I completely understand Bravur Watches, but then again who cares? I’m obviously not the target audience, and judging by their release schedule, there are plenty of people who get them. Don’t get me wrong, these are brilliant looking watches, just look at them! I’m a bit on the fence about the pricing, but ignore me and enjoy their third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III.

The first watch in the series was an homage to the Giro d'Italia, the second to the Tour de France and this third version is a love letter to one of the most prestigious of Grand Tours, the Vuelta a España which takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. What I love about the Bravur Watches is they prove watches can be linked to more than just motorsports and is, if I’m not mistaken, the only watch explicitly inspired by bike racing.

The watch comes in 38.2mm wide and 46.3mm lug-to-lug PVD-coated stainless steel case. It’s coated black, just like the previous two versions, but now that I see them all one next to the other, wouldn’t it have been amazing to see them coated in the accent colors of each model - pink, yellow and now red. Those three colors, of course, com from the jerseys that the leading rider wear during the race, and the Vuelta III is full of the red - the seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o’clock are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock. In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires.

Inside the watch is the Sellita SW511, a reliable movement that shows up a lot in chronographs from Nivada Grenchen and Sinn. It features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws and a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch comes on a red rubber strap or a black leather one.

The Bravur La Vuelta III can be ordered right now and will set you back a pretty substantial $2,590. See more on the Bravur website.

4/

With The Airfight Chronograph Reservoir Reservoir Took The Task Of Making A Pilot’s Watch Very Literaly

IWC, Breitling, Bell&Ross all make pilot’s watches. Some take on the task more literally (Bell&Ross) than others (Breitling), but they all end up drawing some inspiration from actual planes when designing their pieces. And there’s no more famous plane than the North American P-51 Mustang, and no plane that has inspired more watches. Now along comes Reservoir, the relatively small Swiss watchmaker, but one with some great watches, and does what no other watch has done - transpose the complicated instruments inside the cockpit of the P-51 onto a wrist with their new Airfight Chronograph.

Being a pilot’s watch, expect it to be large. But the 43mm diameter might just be on the top edge of wearability for most people. It comes in two versions, a silver stainless steel one and a black PVD coated case and I have to say, as a person that doesn’t like PVD coatings, this one blends so well with the all black dial that it actually looks fantastic.

The Airfight Chronograph will appeal to two categories of people in particular: enthusiasts and pilots. Enthusiasts will immediately spot the aircraft-inspired details on the dial, like the hour and minute hands that look like P-51 instruments. Pilots will recognise the nods to the ‘Badin’ airspeed indicator, the vertical speed indicator and the tachometer measuring rpm.

Like I said, the dial is pitch black, devoid of any relief or decoration, with just markers at 12 and 6 and completely dedicated to the complications on it. The features sectors in green, orange, and black, just like airplane instruments. On the left of the dial is a retrograde arc showing a 0–30 running seconds display and on the right side is the date, also in retrograde and marked from 1 to 31. The 30-minute counter is at 12 o’clock, and the hour counter at 6 o’clock

The watch is powered a La Joux-Perret-based bi-retrograde movement they call the RSV-Bi120 Calibre. It has a chronograph and a column wheel and boasts a 60-hour power reserve.

This is a pretty on-the-nose pilot’s watch with a ton of easter eggs, so I imagine it’s customer base is going to be very focused to those two groups I mentioned. If you are interested in it, you can get it now at a price of €5,750. Check it out on the Reservoir website.

5/

Ulysse Nardin Releases Blast Free Wheel Marquetry with Silicon Dial

The line of people ready to make fun of Ulysse Nardin for the Freak is very long. However, they also make watches that aren’t the Freak. And when they do, they’re usually incredible pieces of engineering. At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, UN presented the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a showcase for their incredible use of silicon.

No, really, it’s all about the silicon here, and this is an extension of the Blast Free Wheel watch which used a skeleton dial to show off all the silicon inside. The new watch employs a metiers d’art known as marquetry, a traditionally a technique used in woodwork, a form of seamless tiling using thin slivers to create a mosaic-like pattern. However, Ulysse Nardin put their own twist this technique by not using wood but rather choosing silicon. This is a style they first introduced in 2019 with the Freak X.

The silicon marquetry has a blue colourway with various shades and a combination of contrasting matte and mirror surfaces as well as two different thicknesses. It gives it a hyper modern appearance. It’s a cool look emphasised by the futuristic design of the Blast Free Wheel with its 45mm white gold case with pronounced facets and sapphire crystal sides.

At 12 o’clock you have the decorated barrel providing a 7-day power reserve, at 3 is the winding wheel, at 4 is the unique power reserve indicator, at 6 is the tourbillon. Along the lefthand portion of the dial are various wheels and gears and lastly in the centre are the hour and minute hands. A complex ode to haute horology. The movement is called the UN-176 Manufacture manual.

The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is offered on a velvet effect waterproof rubber strap or a blue alligator leather strap, compatible with other Blast Tourbillon straps, secured with a white gold deployant buckle. The price is CHF 130,000 or €139,200. Feel free to visit the UN website to admire the craftsmanship.

6/

Armin Strom Updates Their First Ever Manufacture Movement From 2010 With The One Week First Edition

Back in 2010 Armin Strom wowed the indie scene with their first in-house developed and manufactured movement in the One Week watch. It had a seven-day power reserve and a dedication to symmetrical equilibrium in design and became an instant hit for the brand, creating a base for a whole line of new watches, including the One Week Air and One Week Skeleton. At Geneva Watch Days Armin Strom introduced their first update to that original movement. This latest edition is limited to only 25 examples and has been designed to symbolize the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and mechanical prowess.

Visually, the One Week First Edition comes across as a blend of tradition and modernity. Contrary to the brand’s norm of offset hour and minute hands, they are placed centrally on this model to emphasize balance. The absence of a conventional dial highlights a more three-dimensional architectural design, enabling wearers to see the movement from multiple perspectives. The movement itself is adorned with hand-finished chamfers, polished bevels and Geneva-striped plates — all accentuated by a light blue PVD-colored mainplate.

All of these elements are housed in a 41mm stainless steel case, attached to an integrated steel bracelet, which is characterized by “H” shaped links, further emphasizing the watch’s ergonomic design.

But the biggest change comes inside, with the hand-wound ARM21 caliber, with its re-engineered design. A notably significant feature is the twin barrels that provide consistent energy levels to the gear train, with both barrels perfectly viewable from the open dial. Another of the timepiece’s standout attributes is the power reserve indicator, which adopts a cone system, reminiscent of pocket watches, with a mirror-polished cone driven by a conical gear.

The One Week “First Edition,” limited to 25 pieces, is priced at 32,000 CHF available by inquiry.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

1/

Hands on with the Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic

2/

A review of A Perfectly Useless Afternoon Mechanical By Mr Jones Watches

⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

The UniDesign Model One mashes together classic Genta Design, an AP dial, some Cartier influences, a bit of Patek Phillipe and it all works out 

So, while the case of the Model One is unusual, the dial is downright striking. Instead of the more typical grid or windowpane texture, the dial is comprised of a pattern of inset squares. Really, you have to see it to appreciate it. It’s distinctive without being overwhelming and creates a lot of depth on a watch that only measures 9.8mm thick. The applied numerals, thickly lumed with BWG9 Superluminova, float on top of the dial and give the Model One a sportier, more casual look than other watches in this segment thanks to using a “12” instead of a stick for the top marker. The beveled frame around the date window is a thoughtful touch, one that even established brands forget from time to time.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• I stumbled on the most peculiar of conspiracy theories the other day. Apparently, nutrition scientists have known for years that every single piece of research shows that ice cream is not only not bad for you, it’s good for you. But they refuse to acknowledge these results and regularly don’t include them in paper summaries. On that track, scientists are now coming out to say that everything we know about food, diet and drugs is wrong.

• This one is too incredible to believe, but at the same time makes so much sense. The New York Times profiles a group of death row inmates that have found solace and managed to improve their mental health with games of Dungeons and Dragons, full of intricate details.

• How can you not like a piece whose main protagonist’s nickname is Indiana Stones? He has earned this excellent pun by trying to track down and pick up Ireland’s ancient stones—which may sound a little out there but has been used to prove strength for hundreds of years. Pick up this fun tale for a modern-day quest mixed with some fascinating ancient history.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

Singer is for sure the absolute king of restomods. While they didn’t coin the term, or start the trend, they are the car you would show someone who knows nothing about this scene to illustrate what a restomod is. They are also million dollar cars. For the rest of us, there are dozens and dozens of companies that make slightly more affordable restomods and Top Gear put three very interesting ones together. These are the Restogods

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

• LOOKING TO BUY: One of our readers is looking to purchase three very specific watches: an Islander ISL-133 Mother of Pearl, a Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl or a Zelos 300m GMT Mosaic Mother of Pearl. If you’re selling any of these, reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

• FOR SALE: Longines Heritage Skin Diver, box and papers. €1400. Reach out to us and we’ll put you in touch

Want to let us know what you think about the newsletter? Go to our survey and fill it out.