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  • Zodiac Revives Fan Favorite Sea-Chron Dive Chronograph, Mido Gives Us The Classic Ocean Star 200C, Bulgari Updates Aluminium Collection And Revolution Works With Kudoke To Create A Truly Beautiful Watch

Zodiac Revives Fan Favorite Sea-Chron Dive Chronograph, Mido Gives Us The Classic Ocean Star 200C, Bulgari Updates Aluminium Collection And Revolution Works With Kudoke To Create A Truly Beautiful Watch

A new age for dive watches is coming, and Zodiac is tackling the challenge by re-releasing one of the most popoular models in its history

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. We don’t have a second to spare, so let’s get on with it.

In this issue:

  • Zodiac Revives The 60’s Classic Sea-Chron Dive Chronograph

  • Mido Launches New Version Of Classic Ocean Star 200C In Full Blue

  • Bulgari Updates Aluminium Collection

  • Revolutions Continues Grail Watch Collaboration Project With A Really Beautiful Kudoke 2

  • And… invite your friends to win a Seiko Alpinist

Today’s reading time: 7 minutes and 50 seconds

Everybody needs a green faced watch in their life. That’s why we have a new giveaway - it’s the Seiko SPB121J1, aka the Seiko Alpinist in a wonderful shade of green. In fact, we’re giving away two of them!
All you have to do is click the button below and have five of your friends subscribe. Both you and one of your friends will be eligible to win one of the watches
We only have two conditions when entering this giveaway - invite 5 of your friends to subscribe and live somewhere were you can buy the Alpinist, so we can get this for you and ship it to your address. That’s it!

👂What’s new

1/ 

Diving watches were all the rage in the 60’s when diving became a sport available to the masses. Zodiac, like many other watch brands, recognized this trend and released the Sea Wolf diver which was an instant hit. They followed it up with a dive chronograph, the Sea-Chron. Now, Zodiac has decided it’s time for the Sea-Chron to make a comeback, and we couldn’t agree more.

Instead of opting for a 1:1 reissue of the watch, the brand has introduced some changes. Some are subtle, but others are rather bold. Bold like it’s size. The 2023 Sea-Chron measures 42mm in diameter and has a lug spacing of 20mm. It stands tall at 16.5mm and is 50.5mm from lug to lug. This, compared to the vintage model which measures 39mm in diameter and 12.5mm thick.

The dial has also been updated. From the flat matte dial of the vintage to multi-level dial with several finishes. The central dial has a sunray finish, and the recessed sub-dials have a classic radial texture. The lume markers are recessed instead of painted, giving it the feel of a classic sandwich dial. There are two versions to start, a reverse panda black and white dial, as well a blue dial and black subdials along with a matching black ceramic bezel insert. Inside is the Sellita SW510 b.

The new Zodiac Sea-Chron dive chronograph is available starting today. Both the panda and blue and black models are priced at US$2,495 (about €2,260).

2/

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer is for sure in my top 10 favorite watches on sale right now. It’s a crazy dial on a GMT watch that offers decent quality for the money. So every time MIdo comes out with a new watch, I’ll give it a look. Their newest offering is not particularly inventive, but it sure is a nice watch. The new watch is a fully blue Ocean Star 200c, a solid and fully equipped watch at a fair price.

Ocean Star refers to the diving collection of the brand, 200 refers to the watch’s water-resistance and the C in the name is about the material of the bezel, ceramic. The ocean-blue colored rubber strap matches the bright blue dial and high-tech ceramic ring on the rotating bezel. It’s not a small watch at 42.5mm, but it’s a sporty diver, so it’s understandable. You also get a day and date, as well as applied markers and hands filled with luminous material.

Inside the case is Swatch Group’s Powermatic movement (a.k.a ETA C07.621 or Mido Calibre 80). This evolution of the ubiquitous 2824 now features an antimagnetic Nivachron hairspring, with a regulating organ beating at 3Hz. You get a solid 80-hour power reserve.

You can get it for EUR 1,060.

3/

The original Bulgari Aluminium watch was released in 1998 and caused quite a sensation. A hit-watch back in the days, it was cool, different and slightly provocative. In 2020, Italian brand Bulgari relaunched the watch in a design that remained faithful to the original one, but with major technical improvements. For 2023, Bulgari adds some new, summery editions – so-called Capri – as well as a pair of updated chronographs and a lefty edition to be worn for tennis games.

First, in addition to the still existing panda version (white dial with black counters, now reference 103722), Bulgari has added a full black model to chronograph model of the collection. The panda version retains the same colour scheme as before, with its black hour markers, black tracks and logos, as well as three snailed black sub-counters. The new black version is more subtle, with its tone-on-tone counters, and all markers, tracks and logos done in white.

There are some technical updates too on the 2023 Chronograph. First, the case is now slightly larger, at 41mm instead of 40mm. It retains the same construction, with a matte finished aluminium mid-case, a black rubber bezel, a 100m water-resistance and a titanium caseback, treated with DLC. The crown and chronograph pushers are in DLC-coated titanium. There’s also a new movement inside, named calibre B381 – an automatic Sellita SW300 base with a Dubois-Depraz module on top.

The new Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph 41mm models are priced at EUR 5,000. The white/panda model is now available, the black model is expected in June 2023.

Then there are the Capri editions - two new editions limited to 1000 pieces each, that are supposed to reflect the summer vibes of the bay of Naples. They are available in Solotempo or Cronografo versions, and come with a shaded blue dial (a gradient effect from light blue on top, to deep blue at the bottom), yellow accents on the hands, and blue rubber strap and bezel. Both measure 40mm and both are 100m water-resistant.

The Solotempo model has a classic time-and-date display and is powered by the Calibre B77 (base ETA 2892). This version can now be ordered and is priced at EUR 3,600. The Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph Capri edition retains the calibre B130 (base ETA 2894). It’s priced at EUR 5,200.

The last model is the a new green-coloured, destro edition with Solotempo display named Match Point, as the destro orientation better suits tennis players. It’s based on the classic time-and-date model with automatic calibre B77. All rubber elements – bezel and strap – now have a dark green colour and the silvery-white dial is accented with green luminescent hands and indexes, with a yellow seconds hand. The DLC-coated titanium caseback features a tennis ball engraving. Also, strap is here closed by a Velcro system in place of the classic pin buckle. This model is limited to 800 pieces and can be had for EUR 3,600.

4/

The iconic wheel that you will recognize on a 60s or 70s Porsche 911 were actually not developed by Porsche. They were developed by Otto Fuchs and are still known as the Fuchs wheel. They are also one of the most recognizable wheels in all of automotive history. Now, they have inspired Union Glashütte to create its new Noramis Date Limited Edition Deutschland Klassik 2023, in partnership with the ADAC Deutschland Klassik 2023, an annual classic car rally scheduled for May 24th through May 27th.

This limited edition is based on the Noramis Date and its 40mm wide and 10.4mm stainless steel case. The sapphire crystal on top is domed, with a sapphire crystal covering the movement around the back. The screw-down crown ensured a water resistance of 100 meters. The

Union Glashütte has faithfully transferred the iconic five-star shape of the Fuchs wheel onto the dial. The outer rim holds a black printed minute track with triangular makers for every quarter of an hour. Time is indicated with two-tone polished and black hour and minute hands with a vintage green Super-LumiNova insert. Inside the watch is the UNG-07.S1, an ETA-based movement that has a 60 hour power reserve, and it’s worn on a beige nubuck leather strap.

The watch will be limited to 200 pieces and you can get it for EUR 2,680.

5/

Wei Koh has really figured out this watch game. Putting aside the fact that his Revolution magazine is one of the most influential in the watch world, he has started what could only be described as the dream collaboration project - Grail Watch. The concept couldn’t be simpler or more envy inducing: he is chosing his grail watches and working with the watchmakers to customize the watches to his taste.

Now, he is announcing his new Grail Watch collaboration with independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke to customize his Geneva Grand Prix award-winning Kudoke 2, a 39mm by 10.7mm watch featuring Stefan’s in-house movement, the Kaliber 1-24H. The movement has been lauded for democratising stunning handmade finishing. It includes a hand-frosted movement bridge, mirror- polished angles, a hand-engraved balance cock, snail- finished barrels, all in a far more accessibly priced package than these crafts are normally associated with.

The Kudoke 2 has become known for it’s neoclassical design and a sky disk at 12 o’clock indicating 24 hours, with a display of day and night. The collaboration with Revolution will be named “Starry Night” as it is inspired by the painting of the same name by Vincent van Gogh. The Kudoke 2 “Starry Night” is characterized by a brushed and mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case, treated with CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) to give it a shimmering translucent blue color.

The dial is a stunning “twisting vortex” guilloché treated with blue PVD coating that evokes flinqué enamel watches from the 18th century. The infinity-shaped hands, the chapter ring for the indexes as well as the chapter ring for the 24 hours, and the hand-engraved sun and moon disk have all received the careful application of hand-painted Super- LumiNova to create a visual homage to Van Gogh’s legendary painting. It also comes with three straps — a gray Alcantara strap selected by Stefan, a Delugs for Grail Watch Denim Babele strap and a fantastic Delugs Cut-To-Size navy blue rubber strap. The

The watch will be made in just 30 examples and is priced at EUR 13,300.

🫳On hand

Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon

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⚙️Watch Worthy

A look at an off beat, less known watch you might actually like

Since Forstner reopened its doors in 2019, it has become a go-to for vintage-inspired bracelets. The brand was founded by William Forstner almost a century earlier in New Jersey, concentrating on ornamental jewelry and watch bracelets in its early years. The company’s real focus came about in 1939 with the introduction of the “Komfit” bracelet, which was followed in the next decade by Forstner’s version of the “Bonklip” bracelet. Now we see Forstner introducing the Pilot Ref. F-6B/346, the brand’s take on the classic Mark 11 pilot’s watch.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

  • Elizabeth Holmes, the convicted founder of Theranos, was always a riot to see and hear - her voice, her Jobs-esque attire, it was always clear that she was putting on an act. Now, as she waits to go to prison, she’s putting on a new act: a devoted mother that did nothing wrong.

  • If you are at all present on social networks, chances are you were served a video about Dubai - how safe it is, how nice it is to live there and how much they have done for gender equality. This piece from The New Yorker paints a very different picture of Dubai princesses that had to flee the country to save their lives.

  • I’m not particularly up to date with what’s going on with the Proud Boys, but recently one of their leaders was sentenced to jail for their part in the January 6 riots. This article from the Seattle Times is a good example why it’s wise to keep up with what fringe groups are doing.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

Democatization of high end watches is becoming a more dominant trend. All of a sudden, complications that would have set you back tens of thousands of dollars ten years ago can now be purchase for under a thousand. Take, for example, this Radcliffe Le Dome in the video that sells for a ridiculously low $430.

💵Pre-loved precision

Buy and sell your watches. Think of this section like old school classifieds - i don’t guarantee anything except that a bunch of people will see your ad and I’ll put the buyer and seller in touch. Want to advertise your watch? Contact us 

Want to sell your watch to a community of passionate horologists? Reach out to us and we’ll put your ad up. $15 per listing without photos, $25 with photos. 10 available slots per day, discounts for multiple slots.

Everybody needs a green faced watch in their life. That’s why we have a new giveaway - it’s the Seiko SPB121J1, aka the Seiko Alpinist in a wonderful shade of green. In fact, we’re giving away two of them!
All you have to do is click the button below and have five of your friends subscribe. Both you and one of your friends will be eligible to win one of the watches
We only have two conditions when entering this giveaway - invite 5 of your friends to subscribe and live somewhere were you can buy the Alpinist, so we can get this for you and ship it to your address. That’s it!

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